stripped engine ready for removal

[123-jn]

Well today I decided to strip the engine in my camper ready for removal to sort the leaky waterjacket seals. It's taken about 5 hrs to disconnect everything and remove the exhausts. Nothing wanted to come undone easily. I'm left with one last problem. The oil filler tube will not separate at the plastic bit, I've even tried to persuade it with a lump hammer and a wooden drift. I cant get at the two nuts to take it off as only one is accessible. How are these things held on? Tomorrow I will be dropping the engine out on a jack hopefully ready to see what needs refreshing. The engine number has a star punched after it does this mean it's been reconned before?

[itchyfeet]

Oh dear
They don't split in the middle and typically leak from where people try to
£100 new
You can get to the nuts but need to take plenty off first such as engine bar and mounts if I remember correctly

If you drop the box with the engine you can leave it on as you won't need to slide the engine off the gearbox but its not what I do

[itchyfeet]

I use two sturdy wooden beams acros the engine hatch

A ratchet strap around the rear one is under the bellhousing after I have removed the bolts and nuts

Two ratchet straps around the other and these thread through the inlet manufold

Engine bar right off and oil filler off all tinware off as well as exhausts

Lower all ratchets a bit and then slide the engine off the gearbox by moving the wooden beam on the hatch surround

Lower engine on straps onto a trolley

All from memory so may have missed a bit

[kevtherev]

I would have removed the exhaust and everything else when the engine was out..
jus' sayin'

[infidel]

you don`t need to remove the engine bar to get at the inner nut.

just get underneath and use a slim ring spanner.

it isn`t difficult.
I made the mistake of trying to remove the plastic filler neck.
after three hours I gave up, removed the engine with the filler attached, which was fun, then realised that getting the filler tube out isn`t the difficult job I had been told.

I put the engine back in without the tube then fitted it when the engine was in place.

but you do need a slim ring spanner.

[infidel]

you don`t need to remove the engine bar to get at the inner nut.

just get underneath and use a slim ring spanner.

it isn`t difficult.
I made the mistake of trying to remove the plastic filler neck.
after three hours I gave up, removed the engine with the filler attached, which was fun, then realised that getting the filler tube out isn`t the difficult job I had been told.

I put the engine back in without the tube then fitted it when the engine was in place.

but you do need a slim ring spanner.

[itchyfeet]

yeh sure you can leave the exhausts on but I prefer to take them off

Oh yeh I forgot need to jack the van up high enough to slide the engine out
I use standard ramps, jack up and position opposide ways so it can't roll

[123-jn]

Thanks for the great pictures, Ive actually removed my inlet manifold but have some lifting eyes to bolt on although I was going to lower it on a jack.

[itchyfeet]

You have to slide it off the input shaft so a jack alone is difficult and risky as it can fall off

Inlet manufold will go back on in seconds

More engine porn here....

http://s1145.photobucket.com/user/paul_ ... LPG_Engine" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

[what2do]

By eckers like, I bet your fingers were blue with all that white stuff about!!!

[NicBeeee]

The oil filler tube will not separate at the plastic bit

I ask the same question and was told that I didnt need to remove it, believing what I heard I carried on regaurdles until at the point of no return I ended up damadging the plastic filler neck. Realising how stupidly expensive they are I cut the plastic tube short, fitted an alluminium tube as an inner sleeve that fitted nicely up to the step of the steel lower pipe, (recycled from work), and held the lower steel pipe and upper plastic neck together with a piece of silicon hose and two decent mikalor clamps, came to around £10. And I am able to remove it easier if I need to drop the engine without box again, (hopefully not). Good luck with the engine.

[StuM]

I use standard ramps, jack up and position opposide ways so it can't roll

Thanks for this. I have to admit to suffering from brain-fade here...

My van is garaged, but once the engine is out, I want the garage clear for me to work around it properly. I was thinking that the van would have to live outside on ramps (potentially all winter) whilst I worked on the engine - as if I took it off the ramps how would I get it back without the engine. I was even thinking of elaborate winching arrangements! D'oh! Simple answer, push it around and jack onto the ramps!! That way I can shove it in the garage when not working on the engine.

Thanks also for the photo library - really useful for me too.

[123-jn]

well the engine is out, used the itchifeet method with fence posts across the engine bay and a ratchet strap. Now its sat in my shed awaiting attention.

[itchyfeet]

well done

possibly the easiest engine you will ever remove

[pionte]

well done

possibly the easiest engine you will ever remove

na ,MK2 Escort 20 mins ... no hoist required , just grab hold of the rope, sling it around neck and lift whilst standing on suspension turrets....