1.6d to 1y the definitive guide

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ringo
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Re: 1.6d to 1y the definitive guide

Post by ringo »

Cant remember. Need to have a chat with Jake (syncroand101) or Clive (harryman) about it. Could put a question in the club dev forum?
Now driving a big bad VW LT Florida.

kit
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Re: 1.6d to 1y the definitive guide

Post by kit »

I replaced the oil pump while I had the sump off, £40 odd well invested I thought?
1y Tin top rust collector.

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Oldiebut goodie
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Re: 1.6d to 1y the definitive guide

Post by Oldiebut goodie »

weldore wrote:the one thing im worried about is the pic thing...when they are put into the wiki are they part of the forum or are they still links from other sites ?
I was just going to put another pic up and had exactly the same thought as I use Photobucket.

Oil pump is a thought - I haven't got that far yet, I was going to check the backlash on both to see if they are in spec when I get the other engine out.
1.6D 2019 VW T-Cross
200hp T6
1̶Y̶ ̶1̶9̶8̶7̶ ̶H̶i̶-̶t̶o̶p̶ ̶C̶a̶r̶a̶v̶e̶l̶l̶e̶
5̶0̶8̶d̶ ̶M̶e̶r̶c̶

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ringo
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Re: 1.6d to 1y the definitive guide

Post by ringo »

I replaced them on every engine change I did bar the first one. I'm not sure you need to but for £40 why not.
Agreed - add a section for oil pump.

Ringo
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Oldiebut goodie
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Re: 1.6d to 1y the definitive guide

Post by Oldiebut goodie »

Any body got any thoughts on keeping the exhaust gas recirculation setup as the inlet manifold clearance issue may well be solved now?
1.6D 2019 VW T-Cross
200hp T6
1̶Y̶ ̶1̶9̶8̶7̶ ̶H̶i̶-̶t̶o̶p̶ ̶C̶a̶r̶a̶v̶e̶l̶l̶e̶
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weldore
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Re: 1.6d to 1y the definitive guide

Post by weldore »

hmm mine didnt have the egr valve although i did buy another inlet a while ago that has it on with the intention of fitting it but the egr valve has a broken mount :roll: ,i think there were a few variations as the years went by.

you have solved the intake clearance problem ?
the word 'pissing' is safe

Dave and gail.....1983 Pop Top 1.9n/a diesel (aka Ready Steady Eddie)

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Re: 1.6d to 1y the definitive guide

Post by Oldiebut goodie »

I've updated my post with my solution - it should do the job!
1.6D 2019 VW T-Cross
200hp T6
1̶Y̶ ̶1̶9̶8̶7̶ ̶H̶i̶-̶t̶o̶p̶ ̶C̶a̶r̶a̶v̶e̶l̶l̶e̶
5̶0̶8̶d̶ ̶M̶e̶r̶c̶

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weldore
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Re: 1.6d to 1y the definitive guide

Post by weldore »

so you have raised the angle that it sits at ,how does the gasket fit on the ports now rick ?

if we can sort this out im sure it would give back some more power especially if you make a custom exhaust.

see this is where the guide can come into trouble,theres the best way to do it and theres the quick way.i opted for the quick way and started to change stuff over the years.
the word 'pissing' is safe

Dave and gail.....1983 Pop Top 1.9n/a diesel (aka Ready Steady Eddie)

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Re: 1.6d to 1y the definitive guide

Post by Oldiebut goodie »

The gasket is such a sloppy fit to start with it has actually improved it! I was toying with making my own gasket but the original should suffice (although it is very thin - I shall suck it and see literally :) ). Although if you make your own you could use a compound that would be more forgiving if you are slightly out when truing up the face. Final truing up done by coarse wet/dry glued to a sheet of chipboard - not too difficult or time consuming as the alloy is so soft. Full process was ultra thin cutting blade, rough grind, dressed with a 14" "bar-steward" file (carefully as a single piece of alloy caught in the file will score the face) and belt sander!, and finished with the wet/dry.
1.6D 2019 VW T-Cross
200hp T6
1̶Y̶ ̶1̶9̶8̶7̶ ̶H̶i̶-̶t̶o̶p̶ ̶C̶a̶r̶a̶v̶e̶l̶l̶e̶
5̶0̶8̶d̶ ̶M̶e̶r̶c̶

peteabbott
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Re: 1.6d to 1y the definitive guide

Post by peteabbott »

When I did mine, like most "old boy" fitters I read the manual afterwards ! With one or two exceptions where (Weldore and Ringo) helped me out. Think we have to be a bit carefull here though as all the imput so far has come from folks who know which end of a spanner to use and the novices who may be new to all this might be put off by some of the ingenious stuff that the old timers do. I did my swap as cheaply but realistically reliable as I could at the time. Used the inlet and exhaust off the KY, as I did with the waterpump, pulleys and alternator. Stopped at a new oil pump because I thought I would keep the one I had and check the oil pressure if and when she ran. I did actually buy a spiggot bearing, timing belt and tensioner, oil, filters and antifreeze. That was over three years ago and 22,000 miles and apart from the oil surge problem (I have nightmares over that bloomin windage tray) all I have had to do was fit a new starter and remove the glowplug (engine hot don,t use them) sensor as she always needs them hot or cold. There is always room for improvement but she does exactly what it says on the tin, no turbo, no gadgets just good reliability.

(really liking the crank case breather OBG. Think I will copy that and fit it in conjunction with that windage tray !) :idea:
Pete Abbott

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Re: 1.6d to 1y the definitive guide

Post by Oldiebut goodie »

Pete,
did you try just using the cold start when hot before you removed the glow plug sensor? If you did, did it do the job? Wondering about this as I am going to trial a timed solenoid actuation of the cold start due to not being able to use the cable version on my pump - it only has 5mm of travel and it requires a push to actuate. I am hoping that this will be as effective as using the glow plugs every time but won't know until I have made it and got the engine up and running.
I am trying to solve problems before I encounter them so reports of any pitfalls/difficulties that people have encountered are welcome.
1.6D 2019 VW T-Cross
200hp T6
1̶Y̶ ̶1̶9̶8̶7̶ ̶H̶i̶-̶t̶o̶p̶ ̶C̶a̶r̶a̶v̶e̶l̶l̶e̶
5̶0̶8̶d̶ ̶M̶e̶r̶c̶

peteabbott
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Re: 1.6d to 1y the definitive guide

Post by peteabbott »

Yes, do you know what........bit of a silver haired confession.........I had the van for a few months during which time I thought the cold start lever was something to do with the cab ventilation !!! Seriously though the cold start did work on the old KY but had little or no effect on the 1Y. Never got to the bottom of the reason for this as it seems others on here have had the same problem. The only difference was that the original cold start on the donor 1Y was solenoid operated and now cable so I wondered if the cold start lever was only happy in one position i.e. on or off and not variable as with the cable.
Are you considering a second timed relay to come in when the engine is hot ? ? If so how would that work with the already fitted timed relay, or have I got the wrong end of the stick ?

AHHH ! Sorry, E D I T, E D I T, Timed relay for the cold start, I get it now (always RTFM) Yes I see, then my theory with there being a certain position for the cold start to work makes sense. Probably if I had used the solenoid and not changed it for cable and added a timed relay I think it makes perfectly good sense and would probably have worked.
Pete Abbott

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Oldiebut goodie
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Re: 1.6d to 1y the definitive guide

Post by Oldiebut goodie »

How did you get it to work with the cable? - on my pump there is only 5mm of push movement unlike the 20 or 30mm of pull on the old pump.

There was the urban legend of the lady who thought that it was a hook for her handbag and that was what she used it for!
1.6D 2019 VW T-Cross
200hp T6
1̶Y̶ ̶1̶9̶8̶7̶ ̶H̶i̶-̶t̶o̶p̶ ̶C̶a̶r̶a̶v̶e̶l̶l̶e̶
5̶0̶8̶d̶ ̶M̶e̶r̶c̶

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andyb
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Re: 1.6d to 1y the definitive guide

Post by andyb »

I didnt hook up the cold start lever on mines. I had problems with hot starting rather than cold starting so I put a resistor in line the temp sender for the glow plugs and worked a treat.
I went for the easiest swap I could - kept all the exhaust and inlet from my CS. My 1Y came from a caddy- didnt get alternator with it so I carried over the CS alternator and V belt set up. Starter motor I found needed renewed.
I also bunged a petrol gearbox onto it after changing bellhousing and input shaft - always an important consideration with the old diesel high revving boxes.
For the oil dipstick - after trying washers etc that didnt work I ended up using sikaflex on it and its held good. I was using proper marine grade sikaflex not the cheap crap from screwfix.
I had fun with the throttle - thought I would cop out and make it easy for myself so I forked out to Brickwerks for their kit - followed the instructions to the letter and hey presto it was on and I could shut the engine lid - only problem was I found that removing one of the return springs weakened it to the point my pedal went down and didnt come back up - ie acel on but no off - I got round with by adding a couple of extra springs in the cable.

Ive read all sorts of tips about removal installation of engine - I found it by far easiest to take out engine and gear box as one and same with installation - and help of old hydraulic engine lift.

Not the fastest of engines but it has improved my hill climbing ability by loads and made the van much more driveable than the old 1.6 CS and Im getting somewhere between 30-35mpg I reckon.

I looked at porting the inlet manifold and other such stuff but in the end wanted engine in easiest way and working.

I see a lot of people get into a caffufle with the wiring - I ripped off all the 1Y stuff and added the CS - changed the coolant hoses where needed and flanges to get the old sensors back on.
I had the immoboliser on mines at the pump solenoid - chipped away at that and removed it allowing me to wire up exact same as CS.

I did fit a new timing belt and tensioner, new fan belts, used 1Y oil pump.
T25 1.9D Hi-Top Canterbury Camper 1985

kit
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Re: 1.6d to 1y the definitive guide

Post by kit »

Sorry I miss read that thread :oops:
Last edited by kit on 01 Oct 2012, 22:32, edited 1 time in total.
1y Tin top rust collector.

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