Club 80-90 Forums

Success at starting the engine! Removed plugs, some cranking by hand, new plugs, cleaned all connections from coil to dizzy to plugs. Was about to leave the driveway to take it for a spin, but noticed a hissing sound somewhere from the brake servo during braking. The pedal also drops slightly. No ch...

Reading up on flooded engine and yeah, the symptoms match. The cranking was much faster than usual. So, I'll remove the spark plugs first thing tomorrow morning and crank the engine by hand. Should I add some oil down the plug holes to try to re-establish the oil film? I think I have a new set of co...

Sorry if I wasn't clear, I was able to start the engine once after the vacuum pipe was replaced, but just once.

I might have flooded it, I'll try to check all things you mention tomorrow. Thanks for your reply!

This is an old problem for my 1.9 DG. During cold starts it takes some time until all cylinders are firing. At first the I can feel the engine shaking for some time (minutes?), but after a while the shaking stops and the engine “sounds” better. I read that the chunky vacuum hose connecting the one w...

And solved, sort of. Asked this question in a swedish facebook group as well. This setup was done in Sweden to reduce the light during day time usage. And the diode was added to allow parking lights to be turned on without current leaking to the dip/main lights. Now I just have to figure out how thi...

R0B wrote: ↑05 Sep 2023, 18:19  

Thanks! 

Okey, I split open the cable and found it going to the off side (LHD), pulled one of the yellow/red wires out and....found a loop?! I guess this could be used to "heat" the cables up, but why? So yellow wire from dip switch (input fuse 4), via diode to the side lights (input fuse 2)? https...

Hi, I'm trying to sort out all electronics under the dashboard (removing unused stuff, redoing bad connectors etc.) and I think I got a clear understanding of most of it. Except for two mystery wires. Early fuse panel. They are both yellow/red and go to the front loom together with lights, washer pu...

bigherb wrote: ↑31 May 2021, 11:48 They are not wired in series they are just Daisy chained in parallel. There is early and late wiring, yours is the late version, early the choke element didn't go through the thermoswitch.

Thanks for the explanation! That mystery "solved" then.
 

If you were to wire the air bypass solenoid to the thermal switch, as soon as the engine reached temperature the the air by pass would close and idling would become a issue , stalling at tick over everytime . The Haynes diagram is correct , only the heating element should be connected to the switch...

Just to follow up on this: I did get it to work a little bit better, but I think that either the pump arm is too bent or the jet is still not in perfect condition. I've connected the carb to the engine and is seems to work better than before the rebuild, but I notice some hesitation when acceleratin...

(E D I T: Sorry, wrong forum!) 1. In posts on this forum and on multiple images I've found when looking for how to wire the manifold heater, carb body heater, automatic choke heater and the idle cut-off valve the first two is said to belong to the thermoswitched +12v while the two later should be co...

Glad I have been of some use! The annoying thing about the Pierburg Carb is that there does not seem to be a manual that covers all the changes to the carb fitted to the T3. I would assume being as your van is 1983 and mine is 1984 the early ones had the restrictor built into the carb and the later...

Great tips! I searched for a restrictor valve forever, until I looked at the connector pipe and bingo - restrictor built in!

Blast it through with some carb cleaner or wd40 with the straw.  Thank you, I'll try! Does anyone have an image of the inner workings of such injector? In the bottom part there is some movable object which is spring loaded, I guess that is to dampering the fuel flow and if the spring is to stiff it...