Steering and suspension power steering Universal Joint Replacement

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The power steering models have a UJ that non PS don't have. When they start to go bad you may notice a slight click when turning esp large steering changes (ie at low speed lock to lock) Some people also report alternate stiff/easy when turning the wheel. They don't get a lot of love tucked away above the spare wheel. Road salt spray is not the best lubricant and will eventually take it's toll. Mine went from click to an ugly CLUCK in about 3 months doing as few miles as I could to preserve it.

Brickwerks stock replacements with a hefty surcharge to get the core back. They are an unusual size apparently in the world of UJ's.

So changing it you will need 19mm 13mm socket with extensions 13mm spanner, small hammer, wedge type drift.

2X M8 X 30mm washer and Nyloc self locking nuts
2 X M8 40mm  and Nyloc self locking nuts
THESE MUST BE AT LEAST 8.8 Tensile bolts it will be stamped in the top of the bolt. 

optional: scribe

Preferably coat the bolts you are about to work on with plus gas or some other penetrating oil at least 1 hour before working.

Either put the front of the van on ramps or jack and stick on axle stands.

Make sure the wheels are facing centre.

Drop the spare wheel (19mm socket on extension)You can leave the spare carrier attached and hanging down like a tongue!)

Get under and take a look you will see the UJ on the steering rack follow the bar towards the front. Where it meets the steering box it connects with 2 13mm bolts through a rubber pad (take a look at this too, they can split! Get a scribe and mark the position of the components you are about to remove.

turn the steering wheel slightly to lock it, Hopefully one of the bolts that hold the front connection to the steering box one will be accessible, if not you may need someone in the cab to hold the steering wheel while you undo the bolts. As you can only get to one bolt at a time you or your helper need to turn the wheel half a rotation to allow access to the other bolt. Don't remove them just yet, leave them loose but in place.

Undo the two bolts holding the UJ. It's bit of a faff getting to the rear one but I got there in the end. A helper rotating and bracing the steering wheel might help here to get to both bolts. Remove the bolts.

Fully remove the two front bolts and drop the rod to allow for the UJ to be removed. I found the only way to do it was with a wedge shaped drift. I drove it between the clamping faces of the UJ to open it up and break the rust then a smack with the hammer on the connecting rod and out it came. same deal witht the rear but I needed a bit more force to get it off. In retrospect it may have been better to do the rear one first and remove the rod with the UJ attached.

So That was about an hour? Not too bad... now refitting!

Take the rod out of the van making sure you have noted the orientation top bolt hole etc.

Give the splines a clean with a wire brush. those little ridges are what stand between you and certain death!

More to follow...

Torque to 20NM / 14ft lbs