Petrol engines 2.1 Other jobs while out

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Auto: Removing (2.1 petrol) engine to do the head seals.
Are there any other little jobs that i might do to help keep it alive whilst it's out?


HarryMann: Check end-float of crank, crank oil seal at flywheel end for any signs of leaking, spigot bearing not broken or dry/rough (replace if so)


HarryMann: If you want fun, a good opportunity to replace all the exhaust studs/nuts/bolts with new ones, and have a good look a round.

Cooling System

HarryMann: Be careful bashing any of the solid coolant pipes, check the long one down n/s from oil/water heat exchanger looks OK from all angles (they develop pin-hole cracks), normally rust from inside out so you could pop a hose off and see how good it looks, but if corroded on outside, you can wire-brush and paint should put a stop to that.

Every hose you remove is a potential for trouble in future, so ensure the ends aren't perished badly on the inside and go back onto a good clean stub, with a decent clip.

Drain and change the whole coolant volume, rad'n all. Try not to get rubbish in the coolant system.


HarryMann: If you want the DJ system to remain trouble-free, remove, clean, deal with any salt/green/corrosion and re-make all the engine earths, apply vaseline or Holts No-Crode and check the condition of the wiring to all the temp senders, oil pressure and water temps, esp the thermostat region.

Generally, wherever you go on electrical connections, inspect for corrosion products, usually white salts.. try to clean without removing the original plating, e.g brass brush, electrical cleaners, not brutal treatment with coarse emery cloth!

Re-make good engine and gearbox earths, can be quite brutal with them, but protect with grease or paint afterwards


HarryMann: Gearbox, check play (wobble) in input shaft, input shaft bearing in bellhousing for leaking. Freep rotation of clutch operating arm in bushes, grind any burrs off the operating forks. Clutch thrust bearing for roughness, an opportunity to change clutch if you want to. You could also fully drain and change oil in gearbox, checking for 'big' bits coming out through sieve as well as the fir-tree on drain plug, but at least inspect all the casing joins for corrosion, esp. around the bolts. Lightly check that all those securing screws are tight, if you find one will tighten a bit then look closer for corrosion, any oil weep between casings or at bolts means bye-bye box in a year or two at best.