Gearbox Clutch CVs CV joints drain plug
Plug Removal
douwes: 17 mm hex required. Just Kampers J11205 on the tools list. If you take a M10 bolt of about 2 cm and you put on that two nuts turned against each other, you have an adaptor you can use with your normal spanner. I hope you get my drift...
NB. Make sure you can remove your fill plug before you remove the drain plug, or you'll be stuck with a van with an empty gearbox!
This plug was very tight (seized in) and had to be freed up by punching around with a bolt/nut drift to shock it loose, before driving the correct 17mm hex plug tool into it to finish unscrewing it. A replacement drainplug looks in order!
Emptying
Refilling
Mocki I use 1/2" garden hose about 3ft long and a funnel it fits, pass the hose down frm the engine bay, the funnel sits on the top of the air filter and dribbles the oil in over a period of time.
Tip: Warm the oil gently first, it flows better, quicker and doesn't stink as much - just dont get caught using the kitchen appliances by the missus
Magnetic plug fir tree
This is fairly typical of a long service box, no large chunks, nor lots of bronze, but obvious long-term wear.
Better the particles are on the plug than in the oil.
Gearbox fill procedure in images
for searchability Gearbox fill filler filling top-up
Hacksawbob
If you intend to change your gearbox oil it may be an idea in advance to get a good look at the fill plug if its looking gnarled you may want to get a replacement in advance of doing the change. Filling a diesel box here, the procedure is basically the same but the access may be slightly different on a petrol. I found there was room above the gear selector to get my standard socket in and remove the plug. But then I knew it would come out easily as I only did it 2 years ago and used copper slip on the threads. Also I have the rear of the van raised slightly on camping chocs I am on a hill so these chocs made the van level. The manual gearbox takes 4.5Litres of oil, and it is not recommended to overfill, on a level van you can fill til oil is level with fill hole. but I purchased a 4.55L container from GSF so I knew I had the right amount to go in which helps. The chocs just gave me a couple of inches of working space under the van which makes all the difference. If you are not on a hill then raise the front up similarly or the box wont drain/fill fully. Better to drain the oil when is warn and been for a good drive as it flows better, also if you leave your fresh fill fluid in a bucket with warm water it will help it to flow.
Image 1 The first picture is on my back looking up at the gearbox on its right hand side / 'off-side' where the gear selector is. get some one to wiggle the gearstick and you'll find it. Slightly above the selector is the hex headed fill plug. (If you haven't done this before its quite hard to find and we have had a few folks asking on the forum!)
image2 17mm hex socket on a short extension plenty of room above the box to pull down. If your fill plug is stuck solid then you can get a meatier breaker bar on it but you may need to run a universal Joint and double extensions to get it at an angle the outboard side of the water pipes which are in the way. a second pair of hands would help to keep the socket in the plug while pressure is applied.
image 3 Remove drain plug at rear and get ready to catch the old oil. If you have a standard 6L halfords type waste oil container you will find it will be overwhelmed by the volume and speed at which the oil will come out. (I made a 10 min job into an hour with all the cleaning up I had to do!) It may be better to have a bucket or wide tray that will hold 4.5 Liters (8 pints) gearbox oil is horrible stuff to clean up. Clean plug of old oil and swarf and refit, just nip it up with a bit of grease on the threads.
image 4 Drain plug with not much wear
image 5 gearbox fill with funnel attached to rear vents
Refit the fill plug
