Diesel - Glow plugs replacing

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Special glow-plug ratchet spanner

Glow plugs are torqued to 22 ft lb (30 Nm)

The torque must NOT be exceeded because this will cause closing of the ring gap seal, which can lead to premature failure of the plug. Ring gap is approx. 20 thou (0.4mm), this can be seen at the point where the heated rod protrudes from the main body, which ring seals inside the plug hole.

Forum Discussion


Pull the injector pipes and injectors out.

Use a 8mm and a 12mm ratchet spanner.

Use new flame traps for your injectors upon refitment.

If you know what you are doing, have all the tools and the injectors aren't stuck in then it will take 30 minutes.

DO NOT SKIMP ON THE FLAME TRAPS or your injectors won't last 2 minutes.

I have a BluePoint glow-plug spanner (Snap On) and it's okay, it works. I now have some "gearwrench" adjustable, XL locking head ratchet spanners and they are much better, finer ratchet.

Gearwrench XL Locking Flex

grenjs: The problem is, I can't get the glow-plug which sits directly under the Diesel pump out. No matter which way I twist or turn it, the plug fouls against the Diesel pump body and there's still 1/4" left in the glow-plug hole.

If there is anyone here that has successfully replaced their glow-plugs without removing the pump, would you share with me the secret to getting this one out? Please..!!!


OK it's out......... with an idea provided by a poster on the Brickyward forum (of the direction of which it should be removed - upwards) and with the help of the busbar itself.

Certainly not as easy as it should be, but ho-hum.

Now to get the new devil back in!!!

SYNCROSPARESUK: remove injector pipes,remove injectors,jobs easy then,takes 1 hr,cj.

Louey: Usually find the 2 furthest away from you are easy, the next one a bit trickier, usually use a ratchet spanner and it comes off easy enough - the one closest and under the pump requires an open ring spanner and a bit of patience. All this is done without removing any injector pipes - can't see the need to unsettle the fuel system and risk breakage of other parts.

grenjs: Anyhow, all glow-plugs are now in. The problem with the glow-plug under the pump is the fact it fouls against the pump body itself and against the cold start cable. Very awkward.

As suggested elsewhere, I put the busbar in with that glow-plug loosely fasten to it, so no need for the grease or magnet trick on that one. The back glow-plug I did use the magnet trick (I have fat thumbs) and after a cope of attempts, thats fastened too. The front two are easy pleasy.

Other ideas

TitusAduxass: Have you tried removing the stuck one when the motor is hot?

My tip for changing the little barstools under the pump - take it to a garage!

I have to do mine soon, bloodyeffinghatethelittlegitsandthetinynuts.

Apparently, it is a good idea to loosen but not remove the little nuts and then use the copper strip to drag them out.

I have also heard that a good ratchet spanner helps, removing the injectors and lines gives more room (don't forget that you'll need new heat shields under the injectors).

A tip for future replacement: rather than use the copper strip fit glow plugs 4, 3, 2 with their own leads (use high temp silicone cover high flex cable and crimps) and connect those three to number one (nearest the seats). That way you can check each plug individually and removal is easier.

Hassan Bessioua: His website has a few useful Technical Hints and Tips, and Morrocan music too! (Ed. Now off-line)

General Camper Tech

Glow Plugs