Front calipers seems to go on and on without needing replacing there are a number of tricks to get them unstuck if they are binding, but if you snap a bleed valve like I did there is not much option but to replace the caliper. Repair kits are available but at around £55 from brakes international or brickwerks It hardly seems worth it.(£25 surcharge on the old caliper http://www.brakesint.co.uk/ NOV 11). There are 4 types Early and late and ATE and Girling for standard. In order to check which type you have for the left wheel turn the steering to the right to get a good look. Late Girling have one 'V' in the cooling fins ATE have 2 V's take a look at the above website they have pictures to compare your against, I understand that Girling is more common. The kit will come with the caliper two rubber boots and a small sachet of silicone fluid. No Bolts, spring clip, L bracket or hard brake line are included in the Budveg kit you will need to source new or re-use your existing.
Warning Brake fluid is corrosive and toxic and is very painful if you get it in your eyes. Take all necessary precautions safety goggles are recommended.
19mm socket and breaker bar for wheel bolts, jack + axle stands
7mm (bleed nipple) 8mm 10mm 13mm 14mm 17mm spanners
11mm brake spanner,
Brake cleaning fluid
In the days before you do the job a daily soak in plus gas on brake unions is recommended
Loosen front wheel bolts
Jack and secure the vehicle with axle stands
Remove front wheel
Secure the guide pin on the carrier with a 17mm spanner and use a 13mm socket or spanner to remove the caliper retaining bolts upper annd lower M8X21mm
Lever the Caliper away from the carrier Do not allow the caliper to fall, support is weight on the tyre below or with a peice of wire so it doesn't pull on the brake line. If the calpier carrier is excessively rusted it may be best to remove it for cleaning or replacement
If you are replacing the flexible brake line then you can cut the flexi and get a deep 14mm socket on the ferrule But a good 11mm brake spanner is a must for the upper union on the solid pipe. If it is refusing to budge and or the corners are getting rounded you could try filing two opposite flats so you can tap a 10mm spanner on it with a hammer.
One of the two rubber boots to be replaced that cover the guide pin, remove it and clean of the old grease with brake cleaner and coat with half the silicone grease from the sachet with the kit replace the boot making sure it slips into the recesses on the pin and the carrier repeat for the other guide pin.
Showing the spring clip and L shaped bracket and bolt that you need to retain from the old caliper and the short hard brake line that is on the goes from the caliper to the flexi
I made up a new brake pipe out of cunifer rather than reuse the old one. I cut it 20CM before forming the flares. It was easy to bend to make it fit the bracket at this length, but it did need to be bent a littly in situ to avoid interfereing with other components The old one looks more like 10CM though
Job done, caliper to carrier bolts are 13mm with thread lock done up to 35 NM