Difference between revisions of "Brakes front caliper replacement"

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'''Procedure'''
'''Procedure'''
In the days before you do the job a daily soak in plus gas on brake unions is recommended


Loosen front wheel bolts
Loosen front wheel bolts
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[[File:Brake-caliper-replace1.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Secure the guide pin with a 17mm spanner and use a 13mm socket or spanner to remove the caliper retaining bolt]]
[[File:Brake-caliper-replace1.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Secure the guide pin with a 17mm spanner and use a 13mm socket or spanner to remove the caliper retaining bolts upper annd lower]]
[[File:Brake-caliper-replace2.jpg|200px|thumb|left|alt text]]
[[File:Brake-caliper-replace2.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Lever the Caliper away from the carrier Do not allow the caliper to fall, support is weight on the tyre below or with a peice of wire so it doesn't pull on the brake line.]]
[[File:Brake-caliper-replace3.jpg|200px|thumb|left|alt text]]
[[File:Brake-caliper-replace3.jpg|200px|thumb|left|If you are replacing the flexible brake line then you can cut the flexi and get a deep 14mm socket on the ferrule But a good 11mm brake spanner is a must for the upper union on the solid pipe. If it is refusing to budge and or the corners are gettign rounded you could try filing two opposite flats so you can get a 10mm spanner on it. ]]
[[File:Brake-caliper-replace4.jpg|200px|thumb|left|alt text]]
[[File:Brake-caliper-replace4.jpg|200px|thumb|left|alt text]]
[[File:Brake-caliper-replace5.jpg|200px|thumb|left|alt text]]
[[File:Brake-caliper-replace5.jpg|200px|thumb|left|alt text]]
[[File:Brake-caliper-replace6.jpg|200px|thumb|left|alt text]]
[[File:Brake-caliper-replace6.jpg|200px|thumb|left|alt text]]
[[File:Brake-caliper-replace7.jpg|200px|thumb|left|alt text]]
[[File:Brake-caliper-replace7.jpg|200px|thumb|left|alt text]]

Revision as of 22:24, 28 October 2011

Hacksawbob

Front calipers seems to go on and on without needing replacing there are a number of tricks to get them unstuck if they are binding, but if you snap a bleed valve like I did there is not much option but to replace the caliper. Repair kits are available but at £55 (£25 surcharge on the old caliper) (NOV 11) It hardly seems worth it. There are 4 types Early and late and ATE and Girling. In order to check which type you have for the left wheel turn the steering to the right to get a good look. Late Girling have one 'V' in the cooling fins ATE have 2 V's take a look at the above website they have pictures to compare your against, I understand that Girling is more common. The kit will come with the caliper two rubber boots and a small sachet of silicone fluid. No Bolts are included.

Warning Brake fluid is corrosive and toxic and is very painful if you get it in your eyes. Take all necessary precautions safety goggles are recommended


Procedure In the days before you do the job a daily soak in plus gas on brake unions is recommended

Loosen front wheel bolts

Jack and secure the vehicle with axle stands

Remove front wheel


Secure the guide pin with a 17mm spanner and use a 13mm socket or spanner to remove the caliper retaining bolts upper annd lower
Lever the Caliper away from the carrier Do not allow the caliper to fall, support is weight on the tyre below or with a peice of wire so it doesn't pull on the brake line.
If you are replacing the flexible brake line then you can cut the flexi and get a deep 14mm socket on the ferrule But a good 11mm brake spanner is a must for the upper union on the solid pipe. If it is refusing to budge and or the corners are gettign rounded you could try filing two opposite flats so you can get a 10mm spanner on it.
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