Areas that rust - Rear cross-member

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Revision as of 10:46, 15 January 2007 by HarryMann (talk | contribs)
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This is a Syncro that had been waded a lot, hence the silt, but you get the idea all the same:

RearCrossMember ETKA.jpgRearCrossMember 01.jpg

RearCrossMember 02.jpg

RearCrossMember 03.jpg

RearCrossMember 04.jpg

RearCrossMember 05.jpg

Photos and screengrabs courtesy of: Diamond Hell

HarryMann If you don't want to completely unzip the cross-member capping panel like DH, then it'll be a powerful vacuum jobbie with lengths of rubber vac hose attached, and hours prodding with bent bits of fencing wire (loop the end right round round to avoid getting it jammed and round-off the edges to avoid scratching everything inside). A screwdriver doesn't quite cut it! Dry summer weather is best, and doing this over a few days helps as you uncover more and more damp stuff, let it dry overnight and go again, you'll be amazed!Or get the hot-air gun in there, but on low setting.

Others favour a running hose or jet wash in there - your choice (but not mine :-)