Petrol engines oil change

Oil is cheaper than replacing the engine!

Never change the oil without warming the engine up to temp first,
on the watercooled the sump plug is mild steel in a alloy sump, 
and the threads "strip" very easily!

Always use a hex socket or spanner, and never over tighten, just over finger tight is plenty, alway fit a new copper washer.

I always change the oil every 2000 miles, and the filter every 4000, maybe a little too regular, but oil is cheaper than an engine. When refitting the filter take a finger full of new oil from the can and wipe around the oil seal on the filter, and only tighten to just over hand tight, or your'll suffer next oil change!

It is best to fill the filter prior to refilling, but if not, 
take the king lead off and spin the engine to fill the filter before starting.

It takes 1 litre of oil to move the oil from the lower mark on the dip stick to the upper mark, and most 1.9's will burn off the top quarter of the oil on the dipstick within 200 miles, there is no point in topping it up above 3/4 unless you like wasting money on oil.

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Hacksawbob

Oil changes at 3000 miles are the nicest thing you can do for your engine. It is something that the most novice mechanic can do with some basic tools.

You will need

Oil, Quantum 15-40 from GSF for about £8.00 for 5L. Both petrol engines take 4.5 L including the filter, if you aren't replacing the filter you only need 4L.

Oil filter, some change this every other change so every 6000 miles use a Mann filter they are the same for 2.1 and 1.9 Litre petrol engines

You may also need to replace the copper washer seal that goes under your sumplug, you could leave it on for a few oil changes, if you've not done it before then best but one at GSF too.

A recepticle for the old oil to drain into, It should hold at least 5 Litres, suitable lie down oil catchers are available at Halfords etc

13mm Socket spanner

Oil filter wrench

Optional disposable gloves, goggles, newspaper and sand for spillages.

remove sump plug with something to catch the oil you might want to put some newspaper down underneath this to catch the drips.

Allow oil to drain and remove oil filter with oil filter wrench

replace sump plug with new copper seal. Tighten the sump plug up but DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN. You can tighten the plug by holding the scocket around the centre to prevent you having to much power on it, you just need enough to nip it up, you can always tighten it if it drips but if you strip the thread you'll be sorry.

fill new filter to with in an inch of the top, It takes a while for the oil to fill so be patient and do a bit at a time. Make sure seal is 'wet' with oil try not to get oil on the sides as this will make tightening it more difficult.

fit the filter, you have to lean it over 45 degs, some oil may come out if you over filled it. tighten it by hand using a rag

Fill the sump through the main fill point in the engine hatch, note it telescopes out to aid filling, even so you may want to do it with a jug and a funnel. when you start the engine let it run for a few minutes before you drive to allow the oil to flow through the engine.

any major spillages you can put sand down and allow it to soak up then sweep it up and dispose of as solid waste. Dispose of your spent oil an a appoved oil recycling point, there is usually one at you local tip. DO NOT PUT OIL DOWN THE DRAIN!

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ghost123uk

A tip for ( the awkward job of ) filling / topping up the engine oil.

Get one of those plastic bottles that "listerene" mouthwash comes in. With a Stanley knife or similar, cut a hole about the size of the bottom of a coffee mug into the front, close to the bottom. Discard the cap. You now have a drip free "funnel" that sits inside the ( extendable ) oil filler pipe without you even having to hold it.

John Birkett