Club 80-90 Forums

Hello all, this is my first post so quick introduction,

Ive been a t25 owner for 3 years now and own a 1.9dg that ive now stripped/ treated bodywork and built new interior for (ruined the original danbury interior on a 3 month eurotrip) painted it black with a roller thanks to the wiki! Used to be called bluebell because of original colour so now its called Dethbell.

Havent posted before as answer is usually already on here.

My big end started knocking so time for new engine/rebuild, to give myself the time to rebuild at my own pace ive bought a second hand 45k runner off ebay (dodgy i know).

a week later and the new engine is fitted now just trying to getit to run right (honestly easier to change engine out than i thought).

Ive got new service parts in it (filters plugs leads etc) and have set the tappets and timing. compression test 11 to 11.5 on all cylinders.

now it starts up and runs fine and runs sweet as a nut under the choke, but shortly after choke is fully closed it will just cut out and whilst its still warm wont idle when restarted unless left to cool.

it doesnt stall as such it cuts out exaclty like if you turned iginition of, instant and without drama.

ive cleaned carb (without dismantling) with carb cleaner and blown out the pilot jet but still no joy.

I did have to reuse an old ignition coil ht lead as new ones conncetor sheared. and i recently bought and painted a new fuel tank and have changed the fuel filter a few weeks after changing the tank.

Im thinking possibly fuel starvation issues or ignition issues as I have both carbs (replacement engine had all ancilleries) and it does the same thing with both. thinking of rebuilding one the carbs to eliminate it, change out the coil ht lead and change fuel filter but im kinda stuck on the differential diagnosis. Any ideas?

thanks for taking the time to read my issues.

my first thought when reading this is......

you have the carb wiring inside out!

check you have the fuel cutoff solenoid wired to a ignition live and not to the choke or carb heater wiring.

it should be live the whole time the ignition is switched on, where as the carb heater will loose its power once the choke goes off, via the relay in the black electrical box in the engine bay LHF.

That sounds entirely possible and fits the symptoms exactly, would have been nice if they'd make the wiring fool proof. i really have no idea what Im doing but i guess never learn without diving headlong into it.

I'll have another look at the wiring and update cheers.

if it was fool proof every idiot would be able to do it!!!! lol!

there are three black wires with spade connections, and one bigger red wire. the big red ones goes to the carb heating element, the other three piggy back to the live feed.

its fairly easy to suss it without a multimeter,

with the ignition switched on ( just after it cut out) the idle cuttoff solenoid should be heard to click of it had power as you disconnect the spade connection from the end of it ..... if it dont click, it aint got power!!!!

Just took it for a 30 mile run. seems you were right and just the wiring to the carb. took a chance with a second hand engine and its running better than i could ever have dreamed of. Thanks for your help its feels good to be back on the road just in time for spring!

Nice one Steve

Hi theserb, glad you got it sorted, ain't the wealth of knowledge on here grand

Glad too you got a good engine off Ebay, yep, a bit of a gamble. Was that 45K from new or 45K from a re-con ? Unless you would rather not say, how much did it go for ?

Apprently it was 45K from new although as i couldnt go see the van I have no way of verifying it. My old engine has 174K on the clock and the ebay replacement definately looks better off in terms of no oil leaks, little corrosion, no smoking during startup, little/no tappet noise so I'm inclined to believe was low milage van that rotted around the engine. Also I think it was too dirty and standard looking to be a rebuild (crankcase not painted parts looked original) and there were a few parts that i think were from earlier van designs (mines late 89 originally and some hose attachements / sensors were slightly different).

I got it from a breaker who had dubious ratings (isleofVW is username on ebay) guy was flexible in terms of delivery dates but was a little hard to get information out of.

was full 5 speed gearbox (felt good turned by hand) with engine and all ancilleries for 600 (after delivery). Which is great as now i also have a spare gearbox and two of everything, basically my next euortrip Im not gonna have to worry for spare starter motor, belts, alt etc.

I was originally looking at rebuilds on these forums and would have to credit carded a remtec and put myself in serious debt with something that could go wrong anyway.

So i moved into a coach house took a chance on ebay and swapped it myself. I was going to use replacement engine to buy time for a rebuild on my original one but it runs and pulls so smooth I may not bother. Although the thought of playing in the guts of a crankcase for first time is appealing.

All in all its cost me about £800 for the tools and engine instead of the £2500-£3500 I was looking at to get a quality rebuild fitted. Not saying its the best way to go but I was willing to take the risk and now I have a working van, spares and option to do rebuild if i feel like it.

theserb wrote: basically my next euortrip Im not gonna have to worry for spare starter motor, belts, alt etc.

If your alternator isn't noisy then just take a replacement belt and regulator/brushpack unit, even I don't take a whole spare alternator any more.

I still take a waterpump and starter though

Ian

What carb are you running solex df or pier burg dg ? If solex check for audible click from fuel solenoid left on carb check you getting voltage of 12.3 plus at the feed lead to it the df solex will run on choke and starve of fuel on the primary circuit once choke is of

Hey Doug, the OP does say it is a DG (Peirburg) and that Steve's answer fixed the problem

theserb wrote:Just took it for a 30 mile run. Seems you were right [Steve] and just the wiring to the carb.

cheers ghost doug runs of and hits himself with the silly stick and must stop speed reading with the mrs glass's on

dugwiththevwbug wrote:cheers ghost doug runs of and hits himself with the silly stick and must stop speed reading with the mrs glass's on