Club 80-90 Forums

Has anyone any clues as to why this is happening.
Went to start the van after it'd been sitting for about three weeks and the starter motor failed (The left one in the pic).
Replaced it just now with a new item and it's done the same (The right one in the pic).
The Ally casting on both has cracked and split in the same place.
The van is a 1990 T25 with a 1.9 dg Diesel lump.
There has been nothing previously to indicate any problems with the starter and ring gear etc...
I'm extremely reluctant to throw in another starter and lose another €175!!

Chopper wrote: The van is a 1990 T25 with a 1.9 dg Diesel lump.

The 1.9DG is a watercooled petrol engine.

Ian

The only thing that I can think of straight off is that you have the wrong ring gear/flywheel. I had a similar thing with a clutch on a BSA m'c years ago - someone had replaced a gear in the gearbox with one that had one extra tooth causing the shaft to be slightly out of line. Something along those lines may be happening here.

I think the engine code needs confirming.
Seems to me that either the wrong ring gear or wrong flywheel for the bell house as said

Yup..oops 1.9 1Y Diesel not DG.
The flywheel, ring gear and starter have worked fine together for years, this is the first problem I've had.

Old starter with worn bush could allow certain amount of play until it gave up under the strain. New one with no wear would be under greater strain straight from installation therefore gave up the ghost quicker.
Just thinking about what could have happened with mismatched starter/ring gear.

Hi,

Is the engine seized? a faulty head gasket can fill a cyclinder with water and cause a hydraulic lock preventing it turning over. This may put enough strain on the starter to break it?

Try turning the engine over by hand, using a socket on the end of the crank

Phil

Phil
I was thinking the same but the motors free.
I have a feelin that the clutch maybe stuck engaged, there was a slight problem with the clutch hydraulics the last time I drove it.
It could be that the starter is engaging with but can't move the ring gear (or the van as it's not free rolling) then it's bursting out the side of it's housing?
Possible??

Hi this happened to me but only once it cracked the starter in the same way all i could put it down to is my head gasket went while i was away inthe van and when i went to start it one morning it had let about 3 litres of water into the engine ,I think it hydroliced it and the sudden stop after about halt a turn broke the starter this is theonly way i could see it happening.Didnt notice until i installed a new engine and tryed to start it .Put on a new starter and away it went
cheers chris

I got a good used motor here you can have for £40 plus post..

Thanks Kev. Apreciate the offer but I'm sorted.

Chopper wrote:Thanks Kev. Apreciate the offer but I'm sorted.

As in it's sorted ?

If so what was it ?

E D I T = I just had a thought, I wonder if there is some foreign object (a nut or bolt for example) in the bellhousing ?

Nah, only sorted as in I have another starter motor.
You could be right about some 'foreign body' in the bell housing.
I'm going to have drop the lot out anyway as a part of the broken starter is left in the bellhousing.
Stupid question, Is it possible to remove the gearbox without the engine??
Last time I did it I had to take out the lot but I want to avoid that if I can!!

Chopper wrote:Nah, only sorted as in I have another starter motor.
You could be right about some 'foreign body' in the bell housing.
I'm going to have drop the lot out anyway as a part of the broken starter is left in the bellhousing.
Stupid question, Is it possible to remove the gearbox without the engine??
Last time I did it I had to take out the lot but I want to avoid that if I can!!

yes, you can remove either without the other.

support the front of the engine tho.

Just for info on removing the gearbox. Just removed our gearbox twice after a "cock" up. Its is easy.
Remove the front mounting bracket from the chassis, 4 bolts and the earthing wire. This gives you more room to drop the gearbox.
If you have Y1/1.9 diesel lump don't expect the engine to tilt towards the front (gearbox) as with the 1.9, the weight appears to be loaded at the very rear of the van and front of the engine. We used a jack and a log to jack the very rear of the sump up which will push the bell housing down and allow the garbox to slide out and down. The engine will also only tilt a small amount because our exhaust silencer hit the body work. But it was still enough to gwet the box out and back in.
I made a wooden frame work for a second jack which held and supported the gearbox for both out but more importantly putting it back in.
The second time back in, I thought that I was getting pretty good and could do it by myself. Not unless you are Arnie Swartzneger. It does really need two people for alignement and pushing it back in to the bell housing.
The most difficult two person job after aligning the input shaft and sliding the box in was bolting the hydraulic slave cylinder back to the bracket. Thats a measure of how difficult it was. Plus the box is bloody heavy.
It really does feel like a no hoper especially for us beginners. But then pop in it goes. What a wonderful feeling and God I was knackered afterwards.
In this forum is the history of why our gearbox had to be changed. It should assist you with this job.
Hope that it turns out OK.