Club 80-90 Forums

i'd like to do some work on a few rust bubbles appearing under the paintwork on my newly aquired T25 I plan on a respray in the future but wondered what the best products are to rub down and what to prime it up with? I'd like to get a nice smooth body and stop any rust coming back through

jakchick wrote: I'd like to get a nice smooth body and stop any rust coming back through

Me to, but at my age its not available on the NHS

Sorry, couldnt resist

You need to rub back to bare metal on the patches, Then treat or best of all gritblast then treat. And cover with a good primer and topcoat in a nutshell.

Vactan is good for rusty areas but always get to as much bright steel as humanly possible.

This is also my situation.

When i get back to bare metal and cleaned up can i just vactan and paint or is it best to vactan, prime, paint.?

Also is a weld through primer suitable as a general purpose primer or just for areas to be welded? And ince welded do i need to then use an etch primer?

I intend to rustoleum btw

Thanks guys, all very confusing with seam sealers, waxols, etch primers, weld through primers, rust trestment, etc etc

rustoleum do a primer that should be good onto metal , but still rattlecan some gloss over it to keep it sort of watertight.if you vactan then paint over it yes and if you use a weld thru then use it where you want but same rules apply its all porouse
mm

Vactan should be against the metal otherwise its not doing its job. If you really want to put it through its paces, find a rusty garden tool, clean off the loose stuff and apply a thincoat then leave it out in all weathers for a year. It needs no primer to protect the metal. It can be difficult to sand (not hard - rubbery) but I found it was the best immediate protection, with or without primer on top. Always wear gloves when applying.

Just to explain that vatcan comment to the un-believers...When rust is deprived of oxygen, when you seal it away from our planets atmosphere... it simply stops rusting

It's just a chemical process... Rust is not personal, or a cancer

But remember water contains oxygen so when you seal rust in, it must be BONE dry
And if the seal is not good enough or it gets scuffed it will start to rust again

Spot on.

Thats why when folk do seams and then say the Vactan hasn't done its job, they forget that theres a back to the seam. Air/moisture gets in - cycle starts again. Fresh metal always preferable but rust needs treating right round, including the back if its gone that far.

thanks; about to check stickfly link for rustolerum ! A paint job for £50 !! Sounds good to me; Anybody else bought their dvd???

In which country?

Dvd is great to see an overview of the process, well recommended

Problem with the B-pillar is that you cannot get to the back of the outer seam because of the inner pillar