Club 80-90 Forums

as removed from the van - a 1990 van as well!


end cover removed - this is a fairly good one! lots of crud in the end, its that condensed that its dry at the bottom!


this is how it should look in the end


stripped down


the 'piston' and seals


main housing cleaned


all parts cleaned

Is that jelly condensed brake fluid? If that is normal/common for all regulators of 80/90 vintage it's a miracle that anyone's is working correctly.

seems to be!

you would have thought it just dirt, but dirt shouldnt be able to get there.

years of old brake fluid!

even the ball bearing has a glaze coating that you can scrape off.

as stated on the post the thickest part of the crud is actually dry , and white in colour as its so compressed

on some valves that get removed the ball is seized, thus shaking the valve has no effect,lots of our vans are like this!

Very nice Billy....I was going to say 'all is clear now' but I'm not sure I can say any more than we have already said....which is: that the regulator works on inertia under braking and the units mounted angle to the horizontal plane. It's 'regulation' of brake pressure to the rear is dependant upon the internal mechanism (plunger and ball bearing) and their position relative to the internal ports as they move under braking.

It is clear from the picture that the mechanism's function could be effected by corrosion and the build up of sludge.

People often don't realize the importance of regular two yearly brake fluid changes, as this not only helps to minimize the occurance of vapour lock(where excess water ingress effects the boiling point of the fluid dramatically which leads to the likelyhood of the fluid boiling/ turning to a gas with the consequence of total loss of brake pedal).
But also that water corrodes the brake system from the inside which leads to pitting of working surfaces and seizing of internal mechanisms such as this one.

Will try and get this up on the WIKI for future reference.

Martin

I change the fluid in all my motors at least every two years but seeming that I might have a go at stripping and cleaning mine out might/should give even better brakes!

I am tempted to have a look-see at mine now having seen all that gunge. Strange that it isn't supposed to be a serviceable item as it appears that it is well within most peoples abilities.(So long as it's re-mounted correctly).

Are there early and late versions, or are they the same?

And were all the seals ok to use again or did you have to source new ones?

Cheers

Dave

early (poss Aircooled) as not sure on date seem to use bay window versions

no new seals - hence non serviceable item.

sometime they reseal , sometimes not due to there design.


i have had them in the past where water dirt contamination has deemed them scrap , so be warned!

I used an o ring kit on my last one, it worked fine and sealed correctly.

Mine was almost solid with crud and muck. A kero bath and a small screwdriver cleaned it a treat

Would leaving one to soak for a period of time in petrol help to clear it out? Or would that totally knacker the seals?

Dave

If you really didn't want to take it apart I should think parafin forced through the various ports with a bicycle pump/syringe would less invasive....shake it like a cocktail shaker....do that a dozen times and then blow it out.....? wash out with brake fluid to finish?

Martin

due to the stte of the crud i have see these a full strip down is the only answer.

petrol will not be good for the seals

nothing you put through it will be as good as a strip down , the effort in removing you may as well strip it down , but also make sure you have a good airline/ workbench ect

Is there a post as to it's location?

kevtherev wrote:Is there a post as to it's location?

if you mean the unit itself, its kinda below the drivers seat, bolted to the chassis

RHD or LHD driver

thanks mate