Club 80-90 Forums

I just picked up this 2.0 cu petrol RHD bus very cheaply and have noticed a couple of things that don't look quite right or i just don't know about. Maybe you can help...

1/ The air intake pipe doesn't connect to a pipe in the body from the side air vent?

2/ Under the vacuum unit where above pipe connects and to air filter- there's an opening which mates with a corroded fiting with rubber seal which goes out of the engine bay with a rectangular form and just stops. Should there be some kind of hose here?

3/ There's no temp guage at all. I do have a red bulb kind of lamp on the bottom right of the instrument panel but i haven't traced it yet and it hasn't lit up yet and hopefully won't.

4/ I've replaced all the fuel lines but i want to swap the vacuum hoses too 'cos they look a bit poor now. What's the right stuff to use? I figured i could use the smaller fuel line as it would fit straight on without using larger diameter connectors at the junctions but would the larger internal diameter of the pipe diminish the vacuum provided?

Any help greatly appreciated- she's lovely. Interior is all original and in great shape, just need to get moving on the bodywork now.....cheers!

welcome to the wonderful world of Aircooled!

No temp gauge? how will you know if you are overheating

Hi & welcome I'm just down the road in Greenock
I have a 2ltr a/c aswell if you need any help give me a call 07909 518515
no overheating probs in 124,642 miles thats a real engine thinking of getting w.c instead of the pots they seem to cook quicker

air rocks!

welcome to 80-90
Aircooled motors don't have temp gauges. with the fan being bolted to the end of the crankshaft, the cooling is much more reliable than a complex 10m water based system..theory is it won't need one.
if you change the oil+ filter, make sure the timing and the mixture is spot on every 3000 miles and ensure that all the tinware is complete and tightly screwed down, and also that the rubber seal between tinware and bodywork is in good order, hopefully you'll never overheat.

there are two red lights in the centre of the clock/speedo. one is for the alternater...if it comes on when you're driving, then it means your battery isn't charging, could be a snapped belt or the alternater's kapput.
the other one is for oil pressure. if this comes on when you're driving, stop driving immediatly. if the oils leaked all over the road, turn off the engine....check the engine..if it seems very hot, and there is plenty of oil then leave it ticking over so it cools down gently and evenly. either way it'll possibly be curtains for the motor, but hopefully not. if the oil light comes on when you're driving, but the oil is still in there, then my guess is that it won't last long.

before you start the car, make sure both lights are working..if they're not, and the oil pressure goes..you'll no nothing of it until you come to a hot, noisy and expensive halt.

my old Aircooled had 158 000kms when i got it, and 190 000+ when i sold it, and it was excellent. it was thirsty for both petrol and oil, so it is worth checking the oil every time you put fuel in it..it is normal to burn quite a bit of oil.

good luck, and enjoy
good luck.

I remember the days of my Aircooled bay - lots of fun

I've got a chip fat smellin' diesel now


Welcome on board - get yourself the Haynes manual, even the Bentley one and a few basic tools if you haven't some already and any problems you've found the right home to ask em

forgot to add - you can fit aftermarket Temp gauges. They are usually of 2 types:

Dipstick sender units
Sump plug sender units

chad wrote:and ..it is normal to burn quite a bit of oil.

Mine does not

Louey wrote:forgot to add - you can fit aftermarket Temp gauges. They are usually of 2 types:

Dipstick sender units
Sump plug sender units

both of these are for oil temp. cylinder head temp may be a better measure

Flibbertigibbet wrote:

chad wrote:and ..it is normal to burn quite a bit of oil.

Mine does not

lucky you

Hi everyone, thanks for the welcome and help!

Long question about below:

the other one(lamp)is oil p
ressure. if this comes on when you're driving, stop driving immediatly

My oil press lamp is coming on when i'm driving but only when i've pulled up and am at idle. Pulling away or a quick dab on the gas also puts it out again- presumably because the oil pump's circulating. I've just changed the oil and just used instant gasket on the strainer housing because i had to wait 6 days for the permanent one. It's leaking a wee bit which might account for it. I've got the original manual which says this is nothing to worry about after a long drive though mine does it most of the time.

The engine's actually a 'new' replacement but the previous owner was clueless as to it's origins or mileage. It is good and powerful though.

Idle speed's a bit erratic and it's begun to stall if i come to a halt moving down throug the gears instead of coasting. Pumping brakes at idle ok and brakes good so not servo. Hoping carbs (stock solex's)ok. I'm going to put it in to get the timing checked as i can't attest to it's history. (has been unused for about 1 year. It smells a bit hot but then it's not a 2004 euro 4 diesel i'm used to is it?

Comments appreciated-thanks again y'alls.

futurecut wrote:My oil press lamp is coming on when i'm driving but only when i've pulled up and am at idle. Pulling away or a quick dab on the gas also puts it out again- presumably because the oil pump's circulating

i would suspect then that the bearing to crank gap is too great, some oilways are slightly blocked, the oil pumps worn, or some/ all of the above and some others.

you have several options.
1. carry on till it goes
2. remove and rebuild
3. use thicker oil..and delay the decision.

my missuses beetle has the same symptoms as yours, but is fine with worn engine oil additive (it's like treacle, and £5 for 500ml). the sad truth is for her car, and i suspect yours, is that the engine is approacing the end of its life.
i hope you go on for 10s of 000s of miles and prove me wrong

... unless the idle speed is a bit low. Otherwise, you may ned to go up a grade on the oil and keep your fingers crossed.

Steve Shaw does a carb spindle refurb service (Gasure Ld, advertised on club80-90)