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CU engine and Tinware refit
Posted: 24 Feb 2012, 18:55
by keith2
Hi all
About to refit my Aircooled CU engine, tinware and engine bay all cleaned up ready for a set of Dell 36s.
My question is - is it easier (even possible) to fit the tinware and seal, before refitting the engine, or do I have to fit it afterwards?
When I took it out, I removed some before I dropped it and the rest afterwards.
All assistance greatfully received

Re: CU engine and Tinware refit
Posted: 24 Feb 2012, 19:50
by cygnak
Definitely fit all of the tinwear before you lift it in, makes life a lot easier than trying to to get all of the screws in at tight angles and you are protect the barrel fins and pushrod tubes if it slips.
Si
Re: CU engine and Tinware refit
Posted: 24 Feb 2012, 20:03
by keith2
Thanks Si, presume the seal goes on as well?

Re: CU engine and Tinware refit
Posted: 24 Feb 2012, 20:12
by sarran1955
Hello,
Fit the seal before installing engine, drift it on gently with a wooden mallet.
I use allen key head 6mm screws for all the tinware, very neat and easy to access afterwards.
Cordialement,

Re: CU engine and Tinware refit
Posted: 24 Feb 2012, 22:24
by keith2
Thanks guys, looking forward to getting it back in on Sunday.

Re: CU engine and Tinware refit
Posted: 27 Feb 2012, 13:18
by keith2
Well, things didn't quite go to plan on Sunday, the engine refused to mate with the gearbox

.
Everything seemed to be lined up, but presumably the layshaft splines would not line up. Haynes manual suggests that the rear gearbox mounting bolt should be removed - is this really necessary? Also should I have all of the engine studs out (two lower ones between engine and gearbox bellhousing) to give me a bit more wriggle room?
Am I not being butch enough to bang to two together?
Last resort would be to drop the gearbox and put the two together off the van and then put both back.
If I dont get it back in by next weekend my wife will kill me - so any advice welcome.
Cheers

Re: CU engine and Tinware refit
Posted: 27 Feb 2012, 14:03
by Ian Hulley
keith2 wrote: Haynes manual suggests that the rear gearbox mounting bolt should be removed - is this really necessary?
Try jer jiggling it and turning a driveshaft, it should slide in like a great big slidey thing.
Ian.
Re: CU engine and Tinware refit
Posted: 27 Feb 2012, 15:40
by cygnak
As Ian said. Can take a bit of pursuation. Did you change your clutch, if so is it aligned up? Leave the bolts out until the engine is pushed home against the bellhousing.
Re: CU engine and Tinware refit
Posted: 27 Feb 2012, 19:19
by sarran1955
Hello,
Is clutch plate correctly lined up...How do you know
Put a dab of grease on the gearbox input shaft.
The trick is to get everything nicely lined up, one wheel off, to be able to turn the input shaft,
An axle stand under the gearbox bellhousing makes life easier.
Dont undo your engine mounting studs, but do check they are not bent.
Clean the threads on the starter D bolt and the other top bolt.
Feed your throttle cable in as soon as you can.
Although this little video is for a CT, its the same ballgame.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JGC3EZXa ... d4AUAAAAAA" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
Cordialement,

Re: CU engine and Tinware refit
Posted: 27 Feb 2012, 21:43
by keith2
Some good suggestions, thanks guys.
I did not remove the clutch so plate should still be aligned unless it has moved with all the knoocking about.
Ready to give it another go on Saturday, if the weather is kind.

Re: CU engine and Tinware refit
Posted: 03 Mar 2012, 18:23
by keith2
ITS IN!!!!!!
Many thanks to all who offered advice - next job is to fit my Dell 36s week after next. Off work all week, so plenty of time to get it running - can't wait
Cheers
