Club 80-90 Forums

hello, i am losing the will to live! just changed my stat, expansion tank, dalek and coolant. flushed the rad and matrix. my 82' diesel devon is getting on my breasticles! the temp gauge is sitting at 2/3 on a run and 1/2 stationary. how many times must u bleed the system? some posts say it takes days with jacks and prayer, while others say it takes 10 mins no hassle? any one here run a diesel? are they a cow to vent? any info would be cool! cheers

Which end of the bus are you bleeding , rad or engine ?

After fitting my AAZ, I undid the bleed bolt on th rad, the filled the coolant tank. When that was full I started the engine and ran it until the thermostat opened; soon after that the water was pumped into the rad and started to flow from the bleed plug. As soon as that happened I tightened the bleed plug and topped up the coolent tank. Job done. Make sure that you have the heater set to it's hottest setting to ensure that you also bleed the heater matrix. Also make sure that you fill the expansion tank as well.

Hope this helps?

These diesels run so cold when standing and barely need the rad and only really warm up under load.
So it sounds to me that the rad still has air in it.
When i bled mine i parked it on a steep hill, got the wife to hold the revs up then i opened the bleed bolt on the rad till a good flow of water came out, easy peasy .

im bleeding rad end, its a 1.6 diesel non turbo. ive been at it most of this morning, everytime i bleed it seems to run a little cooler. just wondered if theres a nak to it or its pot luck. i work on motors for a living and this things got me pulling my hair out!

stagg65 wrote:These diesels run so cold when standing and barely need the rad and only really warm up under load.
So it sounds to me that the rad still has air in it.
When i bled mine i parked it on a steep hill, got the wife to hold the revs up then i opened the bleed bolt on the rad till a good flow of water came out, easy peasy .

i think so too. im going stick it the ramp at work tomorrow see if it will shift. ive bleed that much coolant out of that bleed nipple you cant imagine there been any air left!

2/3rds on the gauge....so the rad fan must be coming on? if not why not?

Martin

California Dreamin wrote:2/3rds on the gauge....so the rad fan must be coming on? if not why not?

Martin

the fan doesnt come on cuz the rad doesnt get that hot around the fan switches. cheers

firstly location in your profile may help , as if your in gloucester i could pop over

its a very simple syetem to bleed , as long as all is in good condition .

the most common fault is the blue dalek cap.


even new ones can be faulty.

when its fitted to the tank try sucking / blowing on the nozzle.

you should be able to blow not suck - if you can its faulty.

the system works on the principle that its a closed system that as it warms up the water expands creating pressure. you release this pressure by undoing the bleed nipple. the initial out put is air . close the nipple when the 'hissing has stopped. make sure the water is topped up , and repeat until only coolant escapes from the bleed nipple.
it is a requirement the the engine be reved during this process and its worth raising the idle to say 1500 rpm .
as you say the diesel take a long time to warm up the system , so it can take quite a while!

also its worth saying that 82 diesels did not come standard with daleck caps , they had old car type metal rad caps!

switching the heater to cold and fan off may assist in warm up but you will need to switch it to warmto complete the bleeding process

also make sure the temp sender / gauge are not faulty.
earth the temp sender wire and see how far the gauge goes up- it should go all the way.

if there are any leaks in the system it will not bleed.!

Got a 1.7D,fitted a new thermostat last year and bled the same way as H-G did,no problems at all. The only extra i did was to crack open the bleed screw on the rad a little(only a couple of turns,don't want it flying off!) after a good run and let out the last of the air while the system was under pressure.
One other thing the check,take the cap off the tank(engine cold) in the engine bay,start her up and let the engine get warm,i found that bubbles appeared in the tank once warm! I thought great head gasket away,but no other symptoms.So i have nothing to lose,took off rocker cover and gave the head bolts a quarter turn each,result! .I have done about 3k miles since then and no problems.

Best bet bud is to use the brickwerks method.If you go on there website you will find it.I used it myself when i was having bother with my engine.Unfortunatley my engine was kerput,but luckily metal mickey sorted me out with one.I found using there method its easy,no jacking up the front just keep the system topped up and give it some revvs.

WHS^^^^

and whs^^^^^ its no mystery just follow correctly
mm