Club 80-90 Forums

Evening All,
Has anyone fitted Front Wheel Bearings from JK
and are they performing Ok?
Fitted N/s front about 2 months, 350 miles ago and seems a bit
of play .....again. They are made by Febi.

Thanks,
Chris. 1984 1,9 DG W/C.

http://www.brickwerks.co.uk" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; for the only tidy ones.

jk and gsf made of cheese

^^^ WHS

Brickwerks Budget kit is also Febi.

I was also going to say...Brickwerks lower priced kit is Febi...nothing wrong with them.
Obviously there is a definate method to properly adjusting taper roller bearings; they shouldn't be loaded at all and a small amount of play at (12 & 6 Oclock push pull) is perfectly correct and needed for expansion.
Old timers use the bearing 'washer' as a guide to correct bearing load....basically tighten the nut to almost remove free play but not too much as the washer should be movable with a screwdriver.
Obviously bearings should also be correctly packed with multi purpose grease.

Martin

Well they're interesting replies and thanks for doing so.
Just replaced front pads today, plus new Hub Nuts, all
seems Ok. So I'll leave that JK Bearing on for now,even though
I'll be thinking of it!!
I'll be dealing with Brickwerks from now on, as like all of us, we
need replacement parts at least as good as originals ?
By the way, what does WHS mean?

What he said.(Or w.h.smith)

By the way, what does WHS mean?

Are you sure it was play in the bearings, did you check your hub nut tightness?
They can work loose & 350 miles sounds about right for a retorque after removing a wheel... Just a thought.

I'm that old timer, and exactly the way I do it Martin.

California Dreamin wrote: Old timers use the bearing 'washer' as a guide to correct bearing load....basically tighten the nut to almost remove free play but not too much as the washer should be movable with a screwdriver.

Martin

andisnewsyncro wrote:Are you sure it was play in the bearings, did you check your hub nut tightness?
They can work loose & 350 miles sounds about right for a retorque after removing a wheel... Just a thought.

Fronts on a 2WD M8....definately do not 'Torque' not unless you want the bearings to collapse in a matter of days.

Martin

California Dreamin wrote:

andisnewsyncro wrote:Are you sure it was play in the bearings, did you check your hub nut tightness?
They can work loose & 350 miles sounds about right for a retorque after removing a wheel... Just a thought.

Fronts on a 2WD M8....definately do not 'Torque' not unless you want the bearings to collapse in a matter of days.

Martin

OOps, bad use of words there - I obviously meant re- check & tighten if necessary I forget a lot of you guys have wheel bolts & not studs (if that makes sense )

Seriously though, I would have thought it could be a case of wheel nuts coming loose after a few miles, perhaps ?

andisnewsyncro wrote:

California Dreamin wrote:

andisnewsyncro wrote:Are you sure it was play in the bearings, did you check your hub nut tightness?
They can work loose & 350 miles sounds about right for a retorque after removing a wheel... Just a thought.

Fronts on a 2WD M8....definately do not 'Torque' not unless you want the bearings to collapse in a matter of days.

Martin

OOps, bad use of words there - I obviously meant re- check & tighten if necessary I forget a lot of you guys have wheel bolts & not studs (if that makes sense )

Seriously though, I would have thought it could be a case of wheel nuts coming loose after a few miles, perhaps ?

Andy.......hub nuts and then studs....you have me confused.

The reason I said 'definately don't torque' was that fronts on Two Wheel drive T25's use taper roller bearings...quite alot different to those on a four wheel drive syncro.
2WD vehicles do have a large nut at the centre of the disc but this is NOT torqued up just threaded down to the bearing and barely finger tight. The nut has a soft extruded ring which is then peened (with a blunt cold chisel) into a grove in the end of the stub axle to stop it coming undone.

Martin

I just meant the things that hold the wheels on

When a wheel has been off (like this one to change a bearing) isn't it good practice to check you've tightened it up properly after a few hundred miles incase it has worked loose... It would seem that when it's been taken off again and retightened, the trouble has magically gone away...

I didn't mean to confuse you Martin, I think I just was having a bad evening, words wise

No worries mate, you have a good point about wheel bolts and nuts, it is good practice to re-tighten/torque (180NM) a few days after refitting.


Martin

Well after this interesting debate, I had retightened after couple hundred miles,
consequently the nuts were "peened" twice and sounded and felt like a worn Bearing.
Discovered Brake Pads had been sticking on that wheel (N/S) which had caused me to
doubt the Bearing.
Anyway, cleaned everything up all free, new nuts,fitted new pads,tested ,froze me rocks off
and all Ok"..........so far!
Atb,
Chris.