Club 80-90 Forums

Got myself a syncro..
Not from england though.. Me that is
Im from the other side of the water, to the east... Sweden

Kinda looks like crap... Most likeley because it got painted by a gang of drunken sweeds going to fotball worldcup in 06. Says so on the side atleast
Doesent really have alot of rust at all but some in the seams like all t25. And I am planning on keeping it but i really dont wanna break it down into molecules when rust repairing. (atleast not now)
But i still wanna find some way of temporarelly STOPING the rust from spreading so i can make a few trips with it before breaking it down and starting to weld repairs...

Dont know how though. Someone told me, Grind the rust away or sandblast (inside and out) cover inside with penetrating bodywax and paint the seam with some kind of terosol and then upon that zink or por15.
my thought is that rust needs oxygen and moisture to advance, but wont this method just seal the moist in, and the water that is moist contains oxygen?
Im planning on applying a coat of paint with roller untill its time to fiddle it into pieces

anyway, plan is to lift is abnormally much although that collides with the angles of the drivingshafts. I have seen (webpages) that sells cv-joints that claim to allow 23degrees angle instead of the original 17 degrees. Is this viable?
(im thinking of combining the Syncro Top Ball Joint Spacers and Lift Spring Spacers from futbus with trialmaster liftspring kit and shocks from suncro-services togeather with larger wheels and bigger breakes)
And would 23 degrees be enough to allow that much raising?

im turning to you guys since you all seem abnormally attached to busses and i guess that is a good thing when asking for tips on my syncro
then again im guessing these seamrustproblems are pretty uniqe to the t3/t25?

hopefull for lots of tips, trix, links, about both the rustissue and my liftingreflections and everything else that can or could help me in my future ventures within the world of vwbussing
Is that at all doable or should i content with the liftspringkit and bigger wheels?

and then as a precaution i must excuse my Englishskills incase it isnt as good as I think it is (and pardon the smileys i just think theyr really cute

Welcome to the forum. What part of Sweden are you in?

scitter wrote:im turning to you guys since you all seem abnormally attached to busses

I only love mine a little!

Hi Scitter.

Welcome on board and Merry Christmas.

Don't worry any more about your English. Its excellent, far better than my Swedish which is non existent, and a lot better than a lot of English folk!!!

Love your idea of lifting the van, but as I am a wood butcher, I'm not really qualified to comment on whether it will all work. There are lots of guys on here who really know their stuff and I'm sure they will help.

As for the rust, it will always come back. Best option is sand blasting as you mentioned. You may be able to get hold of a small attachment to go on a home/diy compressor just to do the seams, but make sure you paint over asap.

Look forward to seeing some pics

Cheers Rich

i actually got an idea last night when i couldent sleep..

anyone ever seen this kind of device?
http://www.verktygsboden.se/sick-falsma ... falsmaskin" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

it makes a crease in sheet metal that looks more or less exactly like the seam.
so there is a posibillety to produce metalsheets to replace the rusted up seam and never having to worry about that problem again. Atleast the part you excange, and it might not differ muck from the original look either..

am i on to somethinbg or has it been tryed and failed?

oh, and thanks for the welcomes too

dont thing the roller would be enough on its own as there is a lot of strength in the seams. could be good if a strengthener was added to the inner side panel. never seen and rolled panells that look exactly the same as the t3 seam but most of the rolling i`ve seen has been with a quite wide roller.

clean the seam out as best you can. media blasting inside and out is good if you have the ability. i heat the seam and flood the joint with a good rust neutralizer untill you can see the moisture comming through to the inside. dry and seal. galve primer and good joint sealer and most importantly a good gloss cover to seal out the elements. inside and out.

very time consuming but does last.

i`d welcome any other ideas also as this is just something i tried and "seamed" to work.

pardon the pun.

lee.

Im sending my Multivan off to have the seams shotblasted inside and out in the new year. I have ordered up a Schutz Gun kit with flexi nozzles. cavity wax and underseal stuff. Ill have it galvo painted while Im at it, waxed, sealed and painted. The scarey bit is of course, not knowing at this stage how much will be left after the shotblasting has been done .....

I will do a photo record and post it.

ah you mean one that makes this
https://club8090.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.p ... 2&start=30" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
and Ive got different rollers made to do the other swages, though I cant find the picky at present.
yes you can make the external joining seam but its a bodge way of doing it, and I would rather remake the 2 poanals and join as the per vw
mm

eyeing over the whole thread there.. A goldmine... really..
seems as if you know what you are talking about.
good thing i have decent amounts of time trying to decide and figure out what to do before i actually put the angle grinder in the body=)

anyone who knows anything about the lifting part?
or in any case can direct me to someone who does?

got a mailadress to someone but have yet to get an answer from him.. might be the mailadress is out of date...?

syncropaddy wrote:Welcome to the forum. What part of Sweden are you in?

anyways im from Terra Scaniae my friend. why?

lifting can be done a few ways.

rear. longer springs / spacers. longer shocks or shock extenders " lower "

front. longer springs / spacers. longer shocks or shock extenders " top or lower of shock "

spacers are pretty straightforward the thicker the spacer the more lift you get.

if you want to get really serious lift then custom suspension arms amongst other things are required.

springs and shocks are a minefield. you need to decide whether the van is " heavy " van or a " light weight " van and then springs and shocks to suit the weight. lots of reading to do for you as you`ll need to draw on everyones opinion and apply it to what you want from the van.

hope that helps. lee.

scitter wrote:

syncropaddy wrote:Welcome to the forum. What part of Sweden are you in?

anyways im from Terra Scaniae my friend. why?

Cuz I spend a bit of time in Orebro ....

Ok. Thats a bit further north. I live in the better, more southern parts of sweden, the riviera we like to joke.

As for the lifting part.. Might be better to wait with that untill the car is finished and after that weigh it and then decide how to proceed.
The only thing i know is that i wanna lift it alot and put on bigger and wider wheels

There is a body lift kit available ........

Dont forget with wider wheels you will have to consider the sliding door as it could foul the tyre when opening. Also something most people forget is that with really big wheels like 235/75/16 and bigger is that the brakes will need doing as well due to the flywheel effect the much heavier/larger wheels give. Standard brakes are at the best of times just OK, you have to remember that the guy in front will most likely have better brakes than you!

syncropaddy wrote:There is a body lift kit available ........

Dont forget with wider wheels you will have to consider the sliding door as it could foul the tyre when opening. Also something most people forget is that with really big wheels like 235/75/16 and bigger is that the brakes will need doing as well due to the flywheel effect the much heavier/larger wheels give. Standard brakes are at the best of times just OK, you have to remember that the guy in front will most likely have better brakes than you!

tell me more about this body lift kit please.
i was thinking http://www.fyrhjulsdrift.se/index.php?t ... e-products" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; 31x10,5/15" or 30x9,5/15".
Although i will be moving the rimhub so ill have very little backspace. perhaps its as you say the sliding door will interfere with the wheel.. ill haveto check on that.