Club 80-90 Forums

Hi - just started hearing a loud knocking when pulling away, speeds up as the van speeds up. From reading the wiki etc it sounds like this is the CV joints - only a) seems to possibly be coming from the front (though hard to tell) and b) the previous owner claims he had the CV joints changed (and I have a receipt to this effect). Anything else I should be looking at? thanks

Have you checked wheel nuts?

The cv joint bolts may have come loose, especially true of the close to the wheel ones which are difficult to get at and tighten easily. Also possibly gearbox nose mount.
I have a knocking in reverse but I know that it is the tailpipe hitting the bodywork due to the gearbox mount being changed and altering the angle of the engine/gearbox slightly.

Well I dug out the receipt for the work and only one CV joint was changed, the o/s outer. But I will check the other things as well, thanks.

Really DO get under there and check that those outer CV joints are bolted up tight - including the replaced one. Usually, if they are coming undone, the knocking is rapidly followed by being stranded at a busy junction. Got the T-shirt and the book at least three times over 25 years....

the next job on my to do list -
(anybody got a 'nothing left to do' list? - can i buy it off you?)

the inner cv joint bolts seems easy enough to get to - with the right size allen key/splined socket -
(once they have been thoroughly cleaned up) - torque up to 33ftlb 45nm - (guess who has been reading up on the wiki! )

the bolts on the outer joint (in the recess) look a bit more difficult -
can you get to them with a torch and an extension bar? or do you need any special tools?

if you go in further and find the cv joint needs replacing - can you do this job without getting in any special tools? -

would be great to know -

the next job on my to do list -
(anybody got a 'nothing left to do' list? - can i buy it off you?)

the inner cv joint bolts seems easy enough to get to - with the right size allen key/splined socket -
(once they have been thoroughly cleaned up) - torque up to 33ftlb 45nm - (guess who has been reading up on the wiki! )

the bolts on the outer joint (in the recess) look a bit more difficult -
can you get to them with a torch and an extension bar? or do you need any special tools?

if you go in further and find the cv joint needs replacing - can you do this job without getting in any special tools? -

would be great to know -

any pre sozzled xmas rationale welcome!

http://www.workshopping.co.uk/product/c ... ool/VS710/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;


poss?

edoh wrote: the bolts on the outer joint (in the recess) look a bit more difficult -
can you get to them with a torch and an extension bar? or do you need any special tools?
Yes,make sure that you clean out the recess for spline/hex well first. No.

if you go in further and find the cv joint needs replacing - can you do this job without getting in any special tools? -

Yes, they may just slide off the splines with the greatest of ease or you may need to rest the joint on a vice and knock the shaft through with a lump hammer onto a lump of oak (avoids shaft damage).

Beware the grease is as black as sin - wear disposable gloves.

thanks so much for the excellent comment
the best of the seasons greetings to you n yours -
edoh

I would jet wash the outer stops crud getting in the fresh grease. make sure you have the right tool hex or splined (TRI SQUARE not torx) there may be a mix. wd40 on a long nozzle in the heads sockets to clean them out good and propper + lots of cleaning with a small brush tooth brush or similar so the socket is good and clean to accept the tool and to identify it corectly (poss most import ant bit!) buy good solid impact type high quality bits this is NOT a place you want to round head off esp in the outer! second pair of hands to apply hand brake/gear while you undo each - then un brake as you rotate wheel to next bolt can save a bit of time. A press may be the only way you will remove old +fit new CV's on the drive shaft. I found no ammount of persuading would get it off.

Also ALWAYS fit new bolts and locking washers pref from VW dont scrimp and buy tat for this application. Blob of thread lock wouldn't go amiss either , double check torque of final fitting after 50 miles or so they can come undone and leave you stuck. Greasing and assembling CV is a black art, there are chamfers to watch out for to ensure its the correct orientation check the wiki I'm sure its there. As said have many gloves standing by and probably a pair or goggles to stop eye crap. Have some cold beers, Swarfega and knuckle plasters, and deep sympathy standing by for the end of the day. Good luck!

cheers matey -
top comment as always -
i knew the kiddies old toothbrushes would come in useful one day!
all the best to you
edoh

el_presidente wrote:Well I dug out the receipt for the work and only one CV joint was changed, the o/s outer. But I will check the other things as well, thanks.

Finally got round to checking this and the o/s inner is clearly gone, rattles and grinds away as you shake the axle. Hopefully should be a straightforward swap, the bolts are 12-spline and seem fairly clean. Hopefully will get it done one night this week.