Club 80-90 Forums

AAZ recently reconditioned

Replaced the ignition switch
checked + cleaned connections on the battery and smeared in greaseafter tightening.
Checked good connection to starter which was new at Easter.
New Engine so earth to engine block should be good, looks clean and not loose.
Replaced gearbox strap last Easter too with one of Kevs stainless ones.
Battery is a Bosch Silver about a year old and holds charge well.
The only thing I am not sure about is short drives to work in the morning usually about 10mins I take it for a blast up and down the motorway over the weekend to stretch its legs. will be OK one day and not the next. Tried a squirt with wd40 on the battery terminals out of desperation and it started whats next The starting wiring harness corrupted internally? Remove and replace Earths?

Bob,

I always had a problem with the spade connection on the starter solenoid getting corroded and this meant sometimes the starter motor wouldnt work. Make sure that is very clean and if necessary, change the female spade connector on the wire that goes to the solenoid. Give it a blob of vaseline before you replace.

At one point i had a long bit of wire coming out of the engine hatch that was connected to the solenoid (in addition to the wire from the ignition switch) -and then when this happened after i had turned the engine off at a petrol station at Bodmin, i just unwound the wire and put it on my leisure battery which started the van! Saved me have to get my hands dirty and unload the van on me hols!!

HTH's

Ringo

Nice one Ringo I'll take a look! I take it the solenoid wire winds its merry way up to the ignition switch? I should have added I do get a clunk at the back when I turn the key to second position then another one under the drivers seat as the leisure relay kicks in. but not turn over of the starter.

May not be that then if you get a clunk - have you changed the big fat wire from the battery to the starter? I had a similar issue years ago where most of the cores on this big wire had snapped giving me intermittent starting.

You can test this buy putting a jump lead from the main cable on the starter (be careful you dont also touch the bodywork) to the positive battery terminal - if it starts then (after turning the ignition key), thats your problem.

Good luck!

Ringo

The solenoid could well be sticky - there was years of crud in mine when I overhauled it - the grease/lubricant was dry and dirty. Cleaned it all up, perfect now.

Thanks guys Soleniod was new with starter 6 months ago.

unless the starter is a genuine bosch item most ,recon starter motors are reconditioned to a price

I thought stainless steel was a big no no for electrics as it is not a good conductor, might be worth trying a standard earth strap.

Come on Bob - you've had all day to try and find out whats wrong - you going to have a go tomorrow or what ?

Ringo

Right, got there yesterday and took a look the connection to the soleniod pulled off maybe a touch too easily. I have crimped it and jammed it on good and solid. I am hoping this was all it was seems to be starting OK for now but typically it will wait til I haven't got a slope to bump start it. I'll see how it goes over the next week.

@rse, done it again this morning and on the way home from work too. So I guess the next step is replace the main battery to starter cable. its got that boot on the soleniod end and a battery terminal on the other where's the best place to get a new one?

I got mine made up at a place that mends alternators (and has since gone bust) - an auto factors?

Ringo

Thanks, I have found an automotive electricians near me, does anyone know what guage and length of battery to starter I should ask for?

I'd take the old one in if possible Bob - i cant remember any of those figures.

Too long its a pain and too short its useless. The auto electrician should know what gauge if you tell him its for a starter motor...

Ringo

OK I got a 25mm square section 1 Meter long the original is a shade shorter than this 95cm probably but the little bit extra gives you routing possibilities, any longer and it starts to be a pain I secured against the top of the battery tray with a figure 8 cable tie (to stop it rubbing against the metal edge. the over the power steering pump and secured with the wires at the back of the engine bay. Reused the rubber boot from the original cable 10mm ring connector crimped on by proper old school motor factors, and a standard battery post terminal Cost £12.95.... testing continues.... but it definitley felt like it started with a real kick which wasn't there previously!


For the wiki...

These would have done it.
Cable is ref 196
http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.eu/V ... ycable.php" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Battery clamp Ref: 39901
http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.eu/V ... clamps.php" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

and butt connector for the starter end CTT10 you could probably crimp this in a vice or ask to get them to do it before sending
http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.eu/V ... s.php#butt" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;