Club 80-90 Forums

Hi all,
I Have a 1981 1.6d and the injector pump has developed quite a bad leak.I will need to take out the pump to repair it which obviously means slackening the timing belt(this was changed just a few thousand miles ago).What I was wondering was will i get away with just marking clearly the belt position on the various pulleys and also putting marks on the housings or is it really necessary to fix the cam shaft with the special tool/bar which I dont have anyway.I think if I am careful marking these before i slacken the tensioner,the timing should be ok after refitting the pump.If anybody has tried this I would like to hear your comments.
Thanks, Regards,
Ronnie.

Hi Ronnie,

this is known as the "mark and pray" method - and I wouldn't do it, but some people do. As you don't need to remove the cam pulley it's not that bad - the timing pulley has a woodruff I think. You can lock the cam with a 5mm flat steel bar - it's not the perfect tool, but it'll work. Also - depending on your pump pulley, you can sometimes use a 10mm long socket to lock it if you have one of them. When redoing the belt etc.. I find it's nice to have the confidence that you can see that the crank and cam are both at tdc when you do up the tensioner again...

Good luck with the pump

Ewen

Hi Ewan,
Thanks for your quick reply.The thing is i have just discovered that the timing of the pump and the camshaft are both out by one tooth on the cambelt which is a real surprise as the van is driving quite well. The TDC mark on the flywheel is actually a little metal lug sticking up and this lines up with the arrow on the bell housing and in this position the slot at the end of the cam shaft is off the horizontal by one tooth and the hole for the fixing pin on the pump is also out by one tooth.I just thought that because the tooth pitch on the belt is roughly 8mm.,it would not be too difficult to get the timing right but I will get a 5mm.bar just to be on the safe side.Thanks Again,
Ronnie.

The diesel engine camshaft has a taper shaft for a interference fit for the cam sprocket no woodruff key.You need to lock the sprocket to undo the bolt use the holes in but not the locking plate for the rear slot.Because it could break the camshaft.Once you loosen the centre bolt give the cam pulley a wack with a soft hammer this should release it off the taper shaft.Once its loose insert the flat plate timing tool and lock the pump with a pin.Make sure the engine is at TDC when you fit the cam belt and tension it the loosen sprocket then can be tightened.

Apologies - I missed the vital words that the injector pump pulley has woodruff key - the cam pulley is as camper says, but I had assumed at that point that you wouldn't need to remove the cam pulley. I would sort it and get it right while you're there - you'll also need a counter holding tool and either a punch or a puller to get the cam pulley off.

Apologies for bad writing on my part

ewenmaclean wrote:Apologies - I missed the vital words that the injector pump pulley has woodruff key - the cam pulley is as camper says, but I had assumed at that point that you wouldn't need to remove the cam pulley. I would sort it and get it right while you're there - you'll also need a counter holding tool and either a punch or a puller to get the cam pulley off.

Apologies for bad writing on my part

Yes agreed a counter holding tool and either a punch or a pulley puller thanks.

Thanks for the information.All this is very helpful.It should be a reasonably straightforward job as I dont have to loosen the cam shaft pulley,or change the timing belt.I will let you know how I get on.Thanks again.
Ronnie.

raggy wrote:Hi Ewan,
Thanks for your quick reply.The thing is i have just discovered that the timing of the pump and the camshaft are both out by one tooth on the cambelt which is a real surprise as the van is driving quite well. The TDC mark on the flywheel is actually a little metal lug sticking up and this lines up with the arrow on the bell housing and in this position the slot at the end of the cam shaft is off the horizontal by one tooth and the hole for the fixing pin on the pump is also out by one tooth.I just thought that because the tooth pitch on the belt is roughly 8mm.,it would not be too difficult to get the timing right but I will get a 5mm.bar just to be on the safe side.Thanks Again,
Ronnie.

I've just read your previous post............

If you're using the standard issue clutch and flywheel then the TDC mark is NOT the little metal lug sticking up! it is this little notch about half way betweeen the two sticky-up lugs.(apologies to psychonaut for stealing his photo)


That might account for your apparent timing discrepancy!

Hi,
This has been bothering me.I didnt know for certain if I was on the correct mark.That photo shows clearly what i should be looking for unlike the one in the Bentley manual which is very dark.Thanks for that,would have not got it right but for all your help.
Regards,
Ronnie.

Whereabouts on the pump is the leak? I ask because sometimes it can be fixed in situ. If diesel's got onto the belt, I'd be tempted to change it.

Hi again, The leak was coming from what I think is the cold start lever shaft which is inaccessable in place so i had to take the pump out.Had the pump checked and sorted by a local expert and then refitted pump,timing belt etc. fired it up and all seems well.Eventually found the TDC mark on the flywheel(very hard to see!!)and used a 5 mm. plate in the end of the camshaft,and fixed the pump position with a 10mm. socket.Would have probably made a total b******s of the job if I hadnt had the help of this forum,So thanks to all for your help and tips.
Regards,
Ronnie.

Hello,

thanks for the update and well done on sorting it! Hope it goes well for a long time

Ewen