Starter Motor, removal and replacement
Posted: 22 Oct 2011, 19:22
Firstly thanks to this thread https://club8090.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.p ... te#p300530
and this wiki https://club8090.co.uk/wiki/Pe ... sh_removal
Van failed to start last week. It was a case of all the lights on, but no one home. Turn the ignition and nothing fired. Following my manual I did some checks on the battery voltage, alternator voltage and trying to short / jump the starter motor I could not get it to turn over. I was stumped so called the RAC, they did the same checks and concluded the starter motor was probably shot as the van fired up when it was given a push start. I successfully managed to drive the 2.5 hours home without stopping or stalling (You never need to stop for a pee unless you know you cannot stop).
Having given the nuts holding the starter to the engine some WD40 over night I managed to remove the starter motor. Its a 1.9 DG engine, 17mm nut at the top and a 15mm at the bottom. Used a hammer on the spanner to encourage it as it was not coming off. Didn't need to jack the van up or remove drive shaft as suggest by Haynes. I did remove the air filter box to give more space up top. The nut on the top needed a larger than expected allen key on the other end to stop it all from spinning.
Upon removal I found the wire coming from the selonoid to the starting housing motor was fried (the one that is on the outside of the casing). With hindsight, this fried wire is probably the reason why the van has been taking longer and longer to turn over when the ignition was turned. To me this seems like a poor design to have the wire exposed to the elements, but there may be good reason for this. Does anyone know why its like this?
I have bought a new starter from JK, £102 plus the £65 deposit for the old starter. I did consider re-soldering the wire on the old one, but there was nothing left to solder to. I guess a local sparky could have sorted it. A couple of threads here do not seem to give the JK replacements much life expectancy so I may be doing this again soon. The new one appears to be a Hella reconditioned one. Whether it lasts or not, the new starter had the van firing the minute the key was turned. Its like a new van.
Iv also removed the oilite bush from the bell housing, thank you to the guide I referenced at the top. An M12 tap on the end of socket did the job. Can any one tell me if the original bush is any longer than 10mm? Below is a picture of the bush I removed and the new one that is going back in tomorrow, very different lengths. Not a lot left of my old bush. Used a mirror and light to check the housing was free of any debris, but nothing left in that either.
There is a groove at the back of the bush housing , does anyone know if this is groove goes anywhere or just collects bits of bush when it disintegrates.
Will put it back together tomorrow after the new bush (£1.08p from GSF - who laughed when i said i would like to use my club discount!!) has soaked in oil over night.
Dave
and this wiki https://club8090.co.uk/wiki/Pe ... sh_removal
Van failed to start last week. It was a case of all the lights on, but no one home. Turn the ignition and nothing fired. Following my manual I did some checks on the battery voltage, alternator voltage and trying to short / jump the starter motor I could not get it to turn over. I was stumped so called the RAC, they did the same checks and concluded the starter motor was probably shot as the van fired up when it was given a push start. I successfully managed to drive the 2.5 hours home without stopping or stalling (You never need to stop for a pee unless you know you cannot stop).
Having given the nuts holding the starter to the engine some WD40 over night I managed to remove the starter motor. Its a 1.9 DG engine, 17mm nut at the top and a 15mm at the bottom. Used a hammer on the spanner to encourage it as it was not coming off. Didn't need to jack the van up or remove drive shaft as suggest by Haynes. I did remove the air filter box to give more space up top. The nut on the top needed a larger than expected allen key on the other end to stop it all from spinning.
Upon removal I found the wire coming from the selonoid to the starting housing motor was fried (the one that is on the outside of the casing). With hindsight, this fried wire is probably the reason why the van has been taking longer and longer to turn over when the ignition was turned. To me this seems like a poor design to have the wire exposed to the elements, but there may be good reason for this. Does anyone know why its like this?
I have bought a new starter from JK, £102 plus the £65 deposit for the old starter. I did consider re-soldering the wire on the old one, but there was nothing left to solder to. I guess a local sparky could have sorted it. A couple of threads here do not seem to give the JK replacements much life expectancy so I may be doing this again soon. The new one appears to be a Hella reconditioned one. Whether it lasts or not, the new starter had the van firing the minute the key was turned. Its like a new van.
Iv also removed the oilite bush from the bell housing, thank you to the guide I referenced at the top. An M12 tap on the end of socket did the job. Can any one tell me if the original bush is any longer than 10mm? Below is a picture of the bush I removed and the new one that is going back in tomorrow, very different lengths. Not a lot left of my old bush. Used a mirror and light to check the housing was free of any debris, but nothing left in that either.
There is a groove at the back of the bush housing , does anyone know if this is groove goes anywhere or just collects bits of bush when it disintegrates.
Will put it back together tomorrow after the new bush (£1.08p from GSF - who laughed when i said i would like to use my club discount!!) has soaked in oil over night.
Dave