Club 80-90 Forums

Ha! first job on the new van and i've fallen! spent an hour or so fiddling with it but cant get it to fit. The plastic halves that came with the van were broken and fouling steering and stalks so i bought a fresh set thinking that the broken pair had probably worked loose then got caught then broken etc etc. however after fiddling with the new trim (top half) I cannnot get it to sit nicely around the column without fouling wheel and left stalk and the bottom half will not clear past the ignition barrel. on closer inspection of the broken original trim it looks like to get it to fit the back has been shaved on the top half and the bit on the bottom half that fouls on the barrel has been cut away. Assuming the trim is correct something is remiss with the column and or barrel - wrong part fitted at some point? Ideas please. the trim is fitted with heated seat switch

On your replacement lower part, is the metal clip present that clips onto your steering column?

Yes it has the clip

This top section of column looks like it will adjust up and give more clearance for plastic parts? Perhaps this has been replaced at some point? Can loosen lowest bolt and the middle two that connect to van body but not sure how to loosen the dome headed ones that screw into dash - have looked behind instiment pod and these two are captive so need to be undone from outside ? Special tool? Or am I over thinking this?

It looks to me as if the steering lock (which the Indicator / Light stalk switch assembly is attached too by 3 screws) is to low on the shaft, it may ease up by hand (loosen pinch bolt on lower part of lock) if not you will need a puller, but be careful not to damage the safety coupling on the bottom of the shaft, you will need to pull off the wire connections to the switch gear, remove the switch gear (3 screws) clamp the safety coupling with some mole grips to stop it pulling apart or damaging it. According to the Haynes measurement from top of black plastic sleeve to top of steering shaft is 41.5 mm. this should leave a gap of 2 to 4 mm clearance from switch and bottom of steering wheel when fitted. Check the measurement first to see how near it is to that, if it is more than 41.5mm you will need to shift it up the shaft.

Either that's been put on in the wrong place as you have explained or the whole column is badly adjusted - having tied to fit the top cowl it is very tight against the dash as well as the stalk. If I slacken the bolt joining the column to the part at the bottom (?) and loosen the middle clamp bolts then somehow get the shear bolts off could I slide the whole column up say 10mm without it becoming disengaged at the bottom? Looks like there is built in adjustment in the brackets etc. I am presuming at some point the steering has been off and put back together badly and instead of starting again in order to fit the plastic cowls they were cut to fit ( badly).

You can undo the shear bolts with mole grips and re-use, seems to be what people do when taking the dash off.

Will have another look tomorrow . Still can't workout why you would fit new parts or repair vehicle then get to the end of job and realise if needed adjusting and decide to Frankenstein the trim instead . Guess the commercial mechanics weren't too fussy as long as it drove.

I had the same problem. Can't remember how I fixed it, but it was just fettling.

Success , moved the steering lock housing up about 10mm and new trim slipped on a treat. Can anyone explain the role of the safety coupling? How would moving the lock mech up damage it without clamping first? I clamped it but I am interested in why at it had play in it to clamp, is it just a matter of pulling it apart against it's will if you move the lock mech to far up?

Also I found a grey wire cut ( can be seen in pic ) goes to bottom long thin plug - any ideas what? Why?

The main role of the safety coupling is to shear or bend away too send the steering wheel away from the driver in the event of an accident, to prevent the steering wheel from pining you too the seat, also will dampen out shock a little I believe.

You only need to clamp if you need pullers to move the lock assembly up, I guess it was loose enough just to wiggle it up

Steve