Club 80-90 Forums

Just fitted new calipers by clamping rubber hoses to limit the amount of fluid loss. Using a one way valave set up I have bled the two front calipers and then drove it and ralised the pedal pressure was poor and going quite far down before any real pressure felt. So bled he front again, left it overnight and this morning bled in sequence from the rear right to rear lft then front right and finanlly front left. No much difference though they do work with pressure. I'm not sure whether it might be anything mastercylinderish and suspect that it's in the bleeding rather than faild seals etc. Am thinking about getting a pressure system like the gunsun one so that I can use tyre pressure to bleed which should (hopefully) mean that i ust open each nipple, bleed and focus on air bubbles, close and then do the rest- does anyone have exprience to suggest that these 'easy bleed' kits work well? Any other tips from the experienced brake men out there? thanks.

I have used one for over 40 years - easiest way in the world. You just need to keep an eye on the fluid level in the bottle as it is easy to revel in the joy of the simple bleeding and over-do it. I buy a 5 litre bottle of fluid then can be sure that there is fresh fluid throughout the system. I have never had any air in the system using one.
I would only worry about losing fluid if I were working on a system that had just been refilled - much easier to replace all fluid (which most people tend to neglect as a service item).

Just a thought, When last did you check the adjusters, on the rear shoes, or the free play on the brake master to pedal
As the rear shoes wear down the adjusters should racket, the shoes out, if not, I find the brake pedal drops.
If you have no free play on the pedal to master, the master doesn't work correctly.
When bleeding, you must, remove you foot totally so the Master can refill.
Enjoy

That sounds very helpful but I don't fully understand. I've never adjusted the master to pedal and did not realise it was necessary/ possible? Is it complex?
Yes, I agree re rear shoes and perhaps they need doing again as well, mine never self adjust but I check regularly. Now I think about it there is a little play from touching the pedal and it achieving anything useful!

Got a sealey easy bleed kit of ebay for £18- has a pressure regulator of sorts and seems robust, slightly better design that Gunsun i thought, will try this on Sat and adjust up the rear shoes at same time.

There is another technique that was recommended to me when having similar problem on another vehicle.
By clamping the other 3 hoses and bleeding one wheel at a time it solved the problem. BTW this was done without vacuum bleeder.
Do the wheels in the same order as you said, longest pipes first with shorter last.
If the pedal travel was ok before you started, the rear drums wont have altered on their own, the problem is most certainly bleeding.
It can also take some time for new pads to bed in to used discs, the effect is a little like they should be bleed some more.

Ive used the gunson easy bleed for years now , wouldnt be without it.
Rear brake cylinders are a common fail , with the brake drum off peel back the dust seal , should be clean and dry but usually rusty & full of brake fluid !
Also master cylinder seals can cause similar problems , not had it on a T25 myself , check for fluid no the floor under the pedals.

Rear cylinders quite new, no fluid loss, seems ok so will bleed with easy bleed system and see where it leads. Tim