240V Hook Up wiring
Posted: 04 Oct 2011, 23:05
A quick how to guide (hope it helps someone)
Equipment.
If your buying a ready made kit, really you don’t need to buy anything else, though I would recommend buying another socket and patress box, and if you want a dedicated 240V light fitting you would require the said fitting as well as a switch.
For added security and safety, it is reccomended to use a ‘comp gland’ or wires entering the consumer unit and depending on where you are routing your ‘flex’ you may wish to use grommets if you are going through metal.
Ready Made Kit -
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/250895845502#ht_2503wt_1132" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
Comp Glands -
http://www.screwfix.com/p/tower-male-co ... of-2/86462" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
Rubber Grommets -
http://www.screwfix.com/p/tower-pvc-gro ... -100/18603" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
I recommend that you always carry spare 13A fuses also -
http://www.screwfix.com/p/13a-fuse-pack-of-10/62239" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
Socket Tester -
http://www.screwfix.com/p/ced-plug-in-s ... ster/76975" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
It is possible to ‘make your own kit’, though from searching, the kits you buy are generally comprehensive and good value, but if you have spare sockets and patress boxes you might be able to save some money. What you need is:
Consumer unit (garage or possibly a shower one will suffice)
2 way RCD
10A MCB
6A MCB
Green & Yellow meter tail
3 core 0.75mm (for lighting circuit)
3 core 1.50mm (for socket circuit)
3 core 2.50mm (for main feed)
IP44 240V 13A Socket
Hook up extension lead
Patress boxes and sockets/switches of your choice
UK, 240V 3 pin plug to IP44 240V 13A socket adapter
The rest, is what I guess you have already (in your general parts collection)
Tools.
Drill & drill bits
Small electrical (flat head) screw driver
Medium posi-drive screw driver
Cable ties or Insulation Tape
Wire stripper
Crimping tool
Socket Tester (this I would recommend you buy and use each and every time you ‘hook-up’)
Self-Tappinng Screws, Woodchip Screws & Wire Clips (these may be part of your kit)
UK, 240V 3 pin plug to IP44 240V 13A socket adapter (this may be part of your kit)
Fitting.
Firstly, you need to decide where you want to fit your ‘hook-up’ point, consumer unit, sockets and switches to go. Once you have decided this and are certain it will work for you, then you can begin.
It is a good idea to ‘dry fit’ the consumer unit and patress boxes.
It is worth starting as the current will flow. So, starting with the ‘hook-up’ point, I positioned mine in the engine bay, so I can reach it from the inspection hatch (so it is out of the way but can be accessed from the outside without having to have the van left open). As you will be drilling into the vehicle for this, I recommend putting your earth strap here also. If you are running wires through metal, it is safer to use rubber grommets.
The position of your consumer unit isn’t that important, I chose the back of the wardrobe on mine (it will be kept in a very similar position when I rebuild the interior in the coming few months albeit with a door covering it) for easy access and the ability to test the circuit when I ‘hook-up’. Before you fit your consumer unit, remove the RCD and MCB’s to make it easier to ‘chop out’ the holes you require, I used comp glands on my flex entry’s to stop any fouling. Once your consumer unit and patress boxes are in position and screwed firmly down (tight enough to secure and be safe BUT not too tight as you can crack the plastic) it is worth running your flex (1.50mm and 0.75mm) for your circuits.
Wiring
Blue - Neutral (old was Black)
Brown - Live (old was Red)
Green & Yellow - Earth
Starting with your consumer unit (see img1), wire your 2.50mm wire from the ‘hook-up’ point into the system, wire the earth first on to the busbar, then the neutral into the RCD followed by the live, then wire in the earth strap to the busbar.
Next is wiring up your sockets, using 1.50mm flex, connect the earth to the busbar, then the neutral into the 10A MCB followed by the live (if your having a lighting ring, follow the instructions using 0.75mm flex into the 6A MCB).
Once you have wired into your consumer unit, you can start on your sockets (when making holes in patress boxes, be gentle as they are brittle and never over tighten the screws) it is always advisable to leave 15mm of wire free in the patress box (you just never know if you will need to adjust/alter it), wire in the sockets and the same for the lighting circuit. As the load isn’t going to be huge, it would be a waste of effort, time and flex if you were to do a ring circuit.
You should then check all sockets with a socket checker, first make sure that everything is turned off (RCD, MCB’s & sockets), plug in your hook up point to your mains then plug your hook-up extension in (now is the nervous time) - Firstly, turn on the RCD, then check the ‘test’ works (it should turn off the RCD almost instantly), if that works, turn on the RCD, then the 10A MCB (your sockets should now be live), go and check every socket with the socket checker (most socket checkers will tell you if there is anything wrong (see img2) - IE Earth, L-N Reverse, Neutral fault and then you can rectify any problems REMEMBER to turn the power off first). You can buy light checkers, but with that many different light’s and bulbs, it would be a very expensive job!
Now all you need to do is tidy the wires and have a brew.
Job done!! Well done!!
When ‘hooking-up’ as a site, it is always best to check everything is ok, by checking the RCD (test function) and your sockets with the socket checker (better to be safe than sorry).
Lastly, you will have a 2Kw (2000w) socket set up - so check your appliances (both as individual and also any you think you will run at the same time.
You can buy low power kettles (250w I have seen), heaters (800w), irons and toasters.
One thing I will remind you is, once you pay for hook up, you wont pay anymore no matter how much or how little you use, so use a kettle and a toaster instead of gas and get your leisure battery charged (and if your better than me, your 3 way fridge plugged in - in fact, you could even put that on a seperate RCD if your not having a lighting circuit).
I recommend that you get the installation checked by a qualified electrician (I paid £15 to have mine looked at and a certificate issued (mates rates)) also I don't want suing if you get it wrong, this is only my guide and how I fitted it into my van and not by any means 'official way'.
Equipment.
If your buying a ready made kit, really you don’t need to buy anything else, though I would recommend buying another socket and patress box, and if you want a dedicated 240V light fitting you would require the said fitting as well as a switch.
For added security and safety, it is reccomended to use a ‘comp gland’ or wires entering the consumer unit and depending on where you are routing your ‘flex’ you may wish to use grommets if you are going through metal.
Ready Made Kit -
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/250895845502#ht_2503wt_1132" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
Comp Glands -
http://www.screwfix.com/p/tower-male-co ... of-2/86462" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
Rubber Grommets -
http://www.screwfix.com/p/tower-pvc-gro ... -100/18603" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
I recommend that you always carry spare 13A fuses also -
http://www.screwfix.com/p/13a-fuse-pack-of-10/62239" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
Socket Tester -
http://www.screwfix.com/p/ced-plug-in-s ... ster/76975" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
It is possible to ‘make your own kit’, though from searching, the kits you buy are generally comprehensive and good value, but if you have spare sockets and patress boxes you might be able to save some money. What you need is:
Consumer unit (garage or possibly a shower one will suffice)
2 way RCD
10A MCB
6A MCB
Green & Yellow meter tail
3 core 0.75mm (for lighting circuit)
3 core 1.50mm (for socket circuit)
3 core 2.50mm (for main feed)
IP44 240V 13A Socket
Hook up extension lead
Patress boxes and sockets/switches of your choice
UK, 240V 3 pin plug to IP44 240V 13A socket adapter
The rest, is what I guess you have already (in your general parts collection)
Tools.
Drill & drill bits
Small electrical (flat head) screw driver
Medium posi-drive screw driver
Cable ties or Insulation Tape
Wire stripper
Crimping tool
Socket Tester (this I would recommend you buy and use each and every time you ‘hook-up’)
Self-Tappinng Screws, Woodchip Screws & Wire Clips (these may be part of your kit)
UK, 240V 3 pin plug to IP44 240V 13A socket adapter (this may be part of your kit)
Fitting.
Firstly, you need to decide where you want to fit your ‘hook-up’ point, consumer unit, sockets and switches to go. Once you have decided this and are certain it will work for you, then you can begin.
It is a good idea to ‘dry fit’ the consumer unit and patress boxes.
It is worth starting as the current will flow. So, starting with the ‘hook-up’ point, I positioned mine in the engine bay, so I can reach it from the inspection hatch (so it is out of the way but can be accessed from the outside without having to have the van left open). As you will be drilling into the vehicle for this, I recommend putting your earth strap here also. If you are running wires through metal, it is safer to use rubber grommets.
The position of your consumer unit isn’t that important, I chose the back of the wardrobe on mine (it will be kept in a very similar position when I rebuild the interior in the coming few months albeit with a door covering it) for easy access and the ability to test the circuit when I ‘hook-up’. Before you fit your consumer unit, remove the RCD and MCB’s to make it easier to ‘chop out’ the holes you require, I used comp glands on my flex entry’s to stop any fouling. Once your consumer unit and patress boxes are in position and screwed firmly down (tight enough to secure and be safe BUT not too tight as you can crack the plastic) it is worth running your flex (1.50mm and 0.75mm) for your circuits.
Wiring
Blue - Neutral (old was Black)
Brown - Live (old was Red)
Green & Yellow - Earth
Starting with your consumer unit (see img1), wire your 2.50mm wire from the ‘hook-up’ point into the system, wire the earth first on to the busbar, then the neutral into the RCD followed by the live, then wire in the earth strap to the busbar.
Next is wiring up your sockets, using 1.50mm flex, connect the earth to the busbar, then the neutral into the 10A MCB followed by the live (if your having a lighting ring, follow the instructions using 0.75mm flex into the 6A MCB).
Once you have wired into your consumer unit, you can start on your sockets (when making holes in patress boxes, be gentle as they are brittle and never over tighten the screws) it is always advisable to leave 15mm of wire free in the patress box (you just never know if you will need to adjust/alter it), wire in the sockets and the same for the lighting circuit. As the load isn’t going to be huge, it would be a waste of effort, time and flex if you were to do a ring circuit.
You should then check all sockets with a socket checker, first make sure that everything is turned off (RCD, MCB’s & sockets), plug in your hook up point to your mains then plug your hook-up extension in (now is the nervous time) - Firstly, turn on the RCD, then check the ‘test’ works (it should turn off the RCD almost instantly), if that works, turn on the RCD, then the 10A MCB (your sockets should now be live), go and check every socket with the socket checker (most socket checkers will tell you if there is anything wrong (see img2) - IE Earth, L-N Reverse, Neutral fault and then you can rectify any problems REMEMBER to turn the power off first). You can buy light checkers, but with that many different light’s and bulbs, it would be a very expensive job!
Now all you need to do is tidy the wires and have a brew.
Job done!! Well done!!
When ‘hooking-up’ as a site, it is always best to check everything is ok, by checking the RCD (test function) and your sockets with the socket checker (better to be safe than sorry).
Lastly, you will have a 2Kw (2000w) socket set up - so check your appliances (both as individual and also any you think you will run at the same time.
You can buy low power kettles (250w I have seen), heaters (800w), irons and toasters.
One thing I will remind you is, once you pay for hook up, you wont pay anymore no matter how much or how little you use, so use a kettle and a toaster instead of gas and get your leisure battery charged (and if your better than me, your 3 way fridge plugged in - in fact, you could even put that on a seperate RCD if your not having a lighting circuit).
I recommend that you get the installation checked by a qualified electrician (I paid £15 to have mine looked at and a certificate issued (mates rates)) also I don't want suing if you get it wrong, this is only my guide and how I fitted it into my van and not by any means 'official way'.
