Club 80-90 Forums

Am I correct in saying that the radiator bleed screw is behind the light grill on the top left of the radiator? An M8 bolt?

Anyone have a photo of this bleed screw in situ? If not, I will grab a photo which may help other members here, I just want to double check on its location before I remove the grill.

Also, is this the bleed screw in the engine bay? I also have a rear heater, and understand I need to bleed the cooling system from there also?



Thanks.

The bleed screw is that bolt

Thanks, its a round plastic knob, so thought so. Will be draining 8ltrs of water soon, and topping up with G12+ coolant when it arrives, so will need to bleed here, the radiator bleed bolt, and the rear heater from what I have read.

thanks again!

You shouldn't need to do the rear matrix, they normally stay full. The bleed on the engine shouldn't need to be used either, they do tend to snap off....
Good luck with the swap

That plastic bleed on the thermostat housing is there to speed up the bleeding process, it allows air to be drawn out of the thermostat housing filling the void around the thermostat with water, so that the thermostat will open sooner. The ring of pipework around the engine bay which bleeds various parts is under vacuum from the water pump, and so draws the air out. On all of the syncros I have worked on the bleeder has been blocked with gunge. It is just a little pin hole. I have left one open for thousands of miles inadvertently with no discernible difference to the cooling system.

For me bleeding the system is a two person job. The revs have to be over 2000 to get the water flow high enough to flush out the bubbles of air. I use a watering can with the coolant in, and add all the coolant first, then top up with water. If you let the revs back off too much the header tank will overflow. As long as you know you have nearly the right amount of coolant in the system I get out on the road to get the coolant hot, and open up the thermostat fully. This then blows all the bubbles out, especially the heater. When she has cooled down it is then only necessary to add a litre or less to the top up tank. As soon as the system overflows when you back of the revs you know you have got enough coolant in there to drive. Screw the blue cap on before letting go of the throttle. Takes about 10 minutes start to finish, plus a ten minute drive and cool down.

I use Halfords "treat yourself special reserve finest" coolant, as I get it cheap, and I know I can get it all over the uk, even on a Sunday.

Dont be scared, it is easy.

Thanks for that, I have also printed out the wiki on bleeding the system so will take my time, and hopefully get things right

I got under the front of my bus today looking for the radiator hoses, but couldn't see them. Is that bash plate removable? Hoping that once the bash plate is removed, I then should be able to see the hoses so I can drain the coolant.

Yep, few screws and the bashplate comes off, all will then be visible

Brilliant! Cheers mate, will do it tomorrow providing the weather is fine.

Finally added my 8 litre of G12+ after draining out 8 litres of water through the radiator bleed bolt. Was quite straight forward to be honest following Simon Baxter's HOW2, which was very helpful.

I had to take off my bull bar from the front of my bus to access the radiator, as there was not enough room to get to the bolt by simply unclipping the grill.

Thanks for all your help!

Finally added my 8 litre of G12+ after draining out 8 litres of water through the radiator bleed bolt. Was quite straight forward to be honest following Simon Baxter's HOW2, which was very helpful.

I had to take off my bull bar from the front of my bus to access the radiator, as there was not enough room to get to the bolt by simply unclipping the grill.

Thanks for all your help!