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broken rear bleed nipple...
Posted: 27 Sep 2011, 20:11
by gazulu
evenin all, managed to break n.side rear bleed nipple today
tried an easy out, but it just stripped the inside of the nipple
plan b was to remove brake cylinder, only head of that bolt was already knackered, luckily no fluid is being lost from the nipple, as its still tight !!!! am i safe to use the van till i find some kind of solution
any of you guys had this happen ? any solutions gratefully recieved
thanx gazulu....
Re: broken rear bleed nipple...
Posted: 28 Sep 2011, 06:39
by kevtherev
The solution is buy a new wheel cylinder from GSF or the like.
Grind off the bolt heads to remove the old one
is it safe... yes
Re: broken rear bleed nipple...
Posted: 28 Sep 2011, 15:00
by jed the spread
kevtherev wrote:The solution is buy a new wheel cylinder from GSF or the like.
Grind off the bolt heads to remove the old one
is it safe... yes
I would do this too, not worth messing with the old one
jed
Re: broken rear bleed nipple...
Posted: 28 Sep 2011, 17:06
by gazulu
thanx for the advice lads
due to the awkward position of brake cylinder bolt head, are we grinding down in between cylinder and brake backplate, or can i access the bolt head with a small grinder from behind the backplate ? thanx again gazulu
Re: broken rear bleed nipple...
Posted: 28 Sep 2011, 18:18
by kevtherev
any way you can
I sheared mine off
Re: broken rear bleed nipple...
Posted: 28 Sep 2011, 23:15
by Hacksawbob
frommemory I think the cylinder is threaded and the bolt head is on the inboard side of the back plate its going to be very tight behind there for anything bigger than a dremmel is my guess. Maybe with the brake pipe out of the way you could get the end of the grinder on the head. Just look out for that back plate they are really expensive!
Re: broken rear bleed nipple...
Posted: 30 Sep 2011, 21:00
by footstuck
This is a last ditch operation But . . trying this will leave you no worse off
as you're already in the brown stuff!
When the spanner starts spinning on the hex of the nipple
i give the nipple nipple nipple, a few sharp square hits with a light hammer untill
it deforms.
The shock of the toffee hammer loosens the rust by compression force
and then i break off the nipple as close to the caliper as i can.
Once the center hole is visible i knock a torque bit into the hole
that is an really tight fit, the splines bite into the wall of the nipple and if your lucky. . . . .
Until the nipple turns you will not have lost anything (unless you go berserk and sheer off the torque drive bit)