Club 80-90 Forums

Hiya All,

My 1980 200cc Aircooled runs like a dream, starts from cold on the 1st turn, even in the middle of winter but has reall trouble when warm.

I need to do about 10 miles in her to get it real warm, then when i stop and turn off for a while its a real nightmare to get going again.

Today i stopped off for petrol and couldnt get it going at all.

I pushed the van to the side of the garage and started taking bits apart to see if i could find anything obvious but couldnt. There seems to be fuel, but i couldnt check for a spark as i was on my own

The after 45mins of playing and just as i was about to call roadside recovery it sprang back into life.

Any ideas????

wehey,
Here is an earlier post on the subject that may help. My 1600 bay always starts better when hot using this technique.
Mike

Dud



Joined: 17 Dec 2005
Posts: 91
Location: Portsmouth Member No. 2029
Posted: Tue Jun 13, 2006 5:59 pm Post subject: Re: Hot starting (Mr Hacksaw)

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Am I not right in thinking that when T25's are warm you should press the accellorator to the floor (not pump) and hold it there to start them. Think thats what I read in the manual and it seems to work a treat.

Mines been smelling a bit recently. I'm guessing its evaporation in this really hot weather.
_________________
(82 Aircooled Autosleeper)

wehey,
Checking for spark when on your own:-
Not recommended at a filling station, (remember Buncefield!!)

1. Turn engine to get points closed. (Your choice how you do this!)
2. Remove distributor cap. (you've probably done that to achieve 1.!)
3. Ignition on.
4. Remove and invert rotor arm into distributor cap so that centre of brass portion is in contact with the carbon brush and end a short distance from one of the four terminals, hold it there with a finger or thumb.
5. With the other hand use a small screwdriver to flick the points open.
a spark should jump the gap in the distributor cap.

DO NOT DO THIS IF YOU HAVE A HEART CONDITION OR PACEMAKER ETC.

Mike

2 litre CU engines don't have points and neither do 1.6 litre CT ones come to that - not as standard original fitting anyway...
An interesting/creative idea tho!

Cheers mate i will give it a try.....does the 2000cc have points??

oops...just read the above reply

wehey wrote: I need to do about 10 miles in her to get it real warm, then when i stop and turn off for a while its a real nightmare to get going again.

The after 45mins of playing and just as i was about to call roadside recovery it sprang back into life.

Any ideas????

When the problem arises & you are turning the ignition key, does the engine try to fire up OR does the starter either click or make a feeble
effort to turn over the engine - like an almost dead battery on a cold winter's morning?
T25 starter motors have a habit of sticking (the pin thingy doesn't retract-
tech.term) then sometimes after around 30 minutes it rectifies itself. This happens on my van & some previous owner has fitted a starter button in the dash.

Bowton Lad wrote:

wehey wrote: I need to do about 10 miles in her to get it real warm, then when i stop and turn off for a while its a real nightmare to get going again.

The after 45mins of playing and just as i was about to call roadside recovery it sprang back into life.

Any ideas????

When the problem arises & you are turning the ignition key, does the engine try to fire up OR does the starter either click or make a feeble
effort to turn over the engine - like an almost dead battery on a cold winter's morning?
T25 starter motors have a habit of sticking (the pin thingy doesn't retract-
tech.term) then sometimes after around 30 minutes it rectifies itself. This happens on my van & some previous owner has fitted a starter button in the dash.

The engine turns over fine, it just doesnt start

I will try the foot to the floor trick nect time and see if that helps

Hi I have this problem on Aircooled also. From a couple of other threads there seems to be a sugestion could be bush in starter motor and in the WIKI a hot to change bush.
Query I have is where do you get the bush for starter motor from? Will any autofactors have and what do you ask for?

Johnmck wrote:Hi I have this problem on Aircooled also. From a couple of other threads there seems to be a sugestion could be bush in starter motor and in the WIKI a hot to change bush.
Query I have is where do you get the bush for starter motor from? Will any autofactors have and what do you ask for?

The starter seems to be working fine though. Turns the engine over the same as if it was cold.....

Sorry wehey,

My 1600 bay always starts better when hot using this technique.

It has also got points, (Could say one of the good points!!!)
I'll get me coat.

Mike

Seriously, I'd try the foot flat to the floor (not pump) technique to start it when warm. Thats the instructions in the VW manual, and it makes it start much more easily when warm.

If this doesn't solve problem, then look at the more complicated solutions.

This hot starting problem you have .I have had the same with my T25 2ltr cu.You need to go through a check list on the engine .Check out cylinder compression . Carbs can have wear on the spindle or body. HT leads & spark plugs / gap. The problem why my 2ltr cu had hot starting problem was the electronic module in the distributer.It worked okay just didnt like initiating HT when HOT.

Back the chokes off as they flood.

Auto chokes are only bi metal strips, they are constantly fed with electric and this opens the choke. once you stop, the choke heating element cools, the bimetal strip brings the choke back on.
Warm engine and choke = non start, or flooding.

Like mentioned up there either jump in and hold your foot flat to the floor or maybe try to back the chokes off a little.