Club 80-90 Forums

has anyone else used this? did you clear waxoyl the interior panels first, how many rolls did you use, I have got six rolls, each roll is 5.33m x 370mm. area 1.97m square. I am going to use aluminium insulating tape to tape them to the van panels.

ive just bought some 200mm stuff from b&q for 3 quid a roll...im gonna have a play this week sometime.also the plan is to use some polythene to cover the panels after like you see on the front doors .

hiya weldy, i took that stuff back and got double sided foil bubble wrap, says it's impenetrable to moisture. will report back and see what happens, going to put some flashing in the middle of the panels to sound insulate.

yeah,ive got thermawrap glued onto the back of my cards but i want more .

i see it like this..my van lasted 26 years with the fluff in it before the rust came..and that wasnt in a bag..so the stuff in the bag should be ok for as long as i keep it ..plus ive coated the internal panels in chassis black paint so should be quite resiliant

yea, sounds good to me, if the thermawrap isn't good enough i will definitely go to space wrap too and pad it out a bit. i am painting my door cards too, they're just fibreboard, and i will clearcoat varnish them too.

its never ending ,isnt it ..but fun too

it's definitely an initiation. i have learned to be more patient, and it's good to see progress and things come together!

As I said elsewhere, there aren't many places you can use the spaceblanket easily, Can't do front doors as it'll foul winder mech. You can get some in behind sink unit, a little on slider if lucky, quite a bit stuffed into small cavities of rear side panels but mostly in tailgate. Remember, if you compress it too much the insulative properties are diminished. I too bought a roll a year ago and discovered all this. Even then, you have to cut lengths off and then reseal ends of spaceblanket bag with ducktape or similar. Tain't easy. In comparison, the thermal sheet will go just about everywhere when cut right and taped down properly.

it was cheap Ralph ...ill give it a go on thursday coz im at that meet tomoz(if its not slingin it down)
i have some gaffer tape to seal it up..in fer a penny n all that.if i have probs ill look frustrated and then gail can have a go

Hi i'm just about to have front, sliding and rear door panels recovered in vinyl so was thinking of re insulating at the same time. As Xpress asks do you clear waxoyl the door panels first as a matter of course?

Cheers

Dave

depends on taste but seems to be no as a rule. i am going to dynax the bottom seams especially in the inner arch area and the panel opposite the slider. otherwise the rust might eat from the inside out into your nicely treated external seams.

There's an insulated jacket under the engine lid. The plastic holding it in place is all ripped so wondered if the space jacket material would be suitable to replace it with?

Also Is dynax a better version of waxoyl?

Cheers

I'm keen to improve the insulation in the van but am wary of creating a moisture trap. If the thin foil type of insulation is taped to the inside of the panels does condensation end up getting trapped between the insulation and the panel? Is it better to stick the insulation to the back of the door cards etc. hence leaving a gap between inulation and metal panels?

No, I wouldn't stick it down that well. That'll tend to create micro pockets where water could sit. You only need to tape them enough to stop them moving much. In fact if you cut right, you can get them to stay in place with no tape at all. As with all insulation, you do want pockets of air. That way if any moisture does get in there it has an easy route out - through drain holes. I did all of mine (or as much as I could with the bubble foil and with doors/windows shut I can barely hear anything going on outside from the inside and I could feel the difference driving along with heaters on in winter weather.

You just can't squeeze enough space blanket in there - few places it will go other than those I've mentioned. I ended up giving the rest away. Main thing is to run the foil as high up under the dash as you can get, under front seats and bottom of battery box, all doors, with a bit of space blanket here and there and a load in rear hatch. Try to cut so in door cavities it not covers the inside, with edges bent at 90 degree to cover edges - like a shallow box without a lid.

I plan on doing Corkyboy's (Manchester) when I can get up there as his is noisy as hell driving along.

Finally, despite warnings that it wouldn't work, I fitted an ALDI foam play mat over entire area above engine lid (Removes easy if I need to get to engine) and that reduced noise from engine significantly. Can only hear engine with window wound down now.

Lots of ways of doing this and folk will do what they do, but just passing on what I discovered doing mine. Foil was good, space blanket not so useful. Oh, and make sure you refit or make new moisture membranes behind door and interior panels - they help reduce condensation. Don't omit that bit.

Someone asked about Dynax- it's made by Bilt Hammer Laboratories and in tests outperforms other waxes signif (Practical Classics) they make cavity wax, external underbody and etch primer as well as soemthing called Hydrate 90 (no i'm not a rep!) that i would say works as well if not better than Vatan- though Vactan probably cheaper and easy to get off ebay. Covkid- i sed a similar stuff as i'm guessing your play mat is made of? It's called LSP507 and its a closed cell foam that is highly fire retardant- i.e. if burnmt with a naked flame it charrs to dust. It comes from a place in south east London that produce all sorts of sound and heat reducing foams and plastics, they can be foil backed or not. The Company is called LSP and the last time i was there they did an 8x4 sheet of 3/4 inch stuff for £20- collected. There's a gut at vanfest who has a whole stall selling huge pieces and offcuts of similar stuff for tenner a sheet i think! all the best.