removing rear hub
Posted: 04 Jul 2006, 20:01
What size socket do i need to remove the large nut that is holding the rear hub on? 
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removing rear hub
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Posted: 04 Jul 2006, 20:22
It sez in the wiki 46mm
Posted: 04 Jul 2006, 20:27
thanks, i'll try that size to remove the nut, I'm putting longer stud on the rear. again many thanks,Posted: 04 Jul 2006, 20:51
46mm socket one end,
BFO fat bloke t'other.
BFO fat bloke t'other.
Posted: 04 Jul 2006, 21:20
If you encounter any problems with removing the nut...
Take the brake drum off, knock the old studs out, feed the new studs through the back of the hub flange and pull hard up using the wheel nuts (on backwards) and spacers.
TR
Take the brake drum off, knock the old studs out, feed the new studs through the back of the hub flange and pull hard up using the wheel nuts (on backwards) and spacers.
TR
Posted: 04 Jul 2006, 22:19
and also a big hammer and punch to smack back plate in a bit to fit studs
Posted: 05 Jul 2006, 05:45
guz wrote:46mm socket one end,
BFO fat bloke t'other.
one in every street i reckon 
Posted: 05 Jul 2006, 07:08
Rob I've got one if you need one:)
Posted: 05 Jul 2006, 15:55
my mate is 22st think he will sort it out if he dont then dont know what will (crane)?????
Re: removing rear hub
Posted: 05 Jul 2006, 16:43
ROBS T25,
If your 22st mate doesn't turn up, try a bottle or trolley jack GENTLY on the end of a good 3/4inch square drive breaker bar, perhaps with a bit of wood or summat between the jack and bar. It worked so smoothly for me (a 10.5 stone geriatric wiv no mate).
Mark the slot on the nut that the split pin was originally in before removal, and tighten back up till the same slot aligns with the hole.
Easy Peasy
Mike
If your 22st mate doesn't turn up, try a bottle or trolley jack GENTLY on the end of a good 3/4inch square drive breaker bar, perhaps with a bit of wood or summat between the jack and bar. It worked so smoothly for me (a 10.5 stone geriatric wiv no mate).
Mark the slot on the nut that the split pin was originally in before removal, and tighten back up till the same slot aligns with the hole.
Easy Peasy
Mike
Posted: 05 Jul 2006, 19:12
Rather better to PRESS the studs in properly, rather than risk pulling the threads on their first outing, by trying to wind them in on the nut.... just my opinion, is all.
Posted: 06 Jul 2006, 12:57
Diamond Hell wrote:Rather better to PRESS the studs in properly, rather than risk pulling the threads on their first outing, by trying to wind them in on the nut.... just my opinion, is all.
The method I was referring to was to be used if the hub could not be removed.
TR
Posted: 06 Jul 2006, 18:16
I've done it your way Tex, All you have to be aware of is lining up the splines on the new studs with the old spline slots which have been cut with old studs. I used an old nut [which I lobed when I finished] to screw them in. I also gave them a little blob of Loctite on the spline.
Posted: 06 Jul 2006, 18:30
tangalooma flyer wrote:I've done it your way Tex, All you have to be aware of is lining up the splines on the new studs with the old spline slots which have been cut with old studs. I used an old nut [which I lobed when I finished] to screw them in. I also gave them a little blob of Loctite on the spline.
I should have mentioned aligning up of the splines!
Well done that man!
Tex Ritter
Posted: 07 Jul 2006, 09:36
Tex Ritter wrote:If you encounter any problems with removing the nut...
Take the brake drum off, knock the old studs out, feed the new studs through the back of the hub flange and pull hard up using the wheel nuts (on backwards) and spacers.
TR
eeeer!