Club 80-90 Forums

my van is a 1.6td t25 just wondering the best type of cambelt anything on ebay? and what is the average life/the best time to change them. are they easy to change and what do i need to look out for thanks in advance

Hello and welcome to the club


This should be in technical really but...... I do mine every three years or at 50K miles

Very easy to do special tools needed and when you do it change the tensioner. Also worth looking at your bottom crank seal to see if it's weeping. If it is it's another easy change all in all it's about an hour and half work.

Just be meticulous with your timing marks and you'll be fine

Also try brickwerks for your belt.

hi hello been look around forum for a while, just picked up a Volkswagen Westfalia Joker 1.6 td, had to do a bit to it, brake pipes, brakes manly. have just recently moved on from baywindow van. what sort of tools am i gonna need to do cambelt change thanks in advance

i picked up this cambelt, any good ?

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll? ... _500wt_715" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

the baron wrote:hi hello been look around forum for a while, just picked up a Volkswagen Westfalia Joker 1.6 td, had to do a bit to it, brake pipes, brakes manly. have just recently moved on from baywindow van. what sort of tools am i gonna need to do cambelt change thanks in advance

Just regular spanners 10mm for rocker 13 mm for tensioner 19 mm for crank bolt.

Nothing special at all. Oh maybe a metal ruler for holding the cam shaft in place

Phil,
I'm changing the cambelt this weekend and have two small issues.

The hole through the pump pulley does not line up when the cam is locked so I need to move the pulley on the pump shaft.
How do I lock the pump pulley to undo its retaining bolt?

Can I simply lock it with the pump pulley pin or will that place too much stress on the pulley?

Second, what size/length are the Socket Head crank pulley bolts (3 off), I think they are M6 but don't know the length.
One has been rounded and a hex key will no longer bite.

Cheers
Titus

TAD exactly like you say lock the pulley through the hole and it should be fine.

The 3 bolts are M6 but I'm not to def on the length I had the same problem but managed to find one at work. If I were to have a guess though around 15mm to 20mm. They can be to long as though foul behind the pulley.

HTH any dramas give a call

armyphil wrote:TAD exactly like you say lock the pulley through the hole and it should be fine.

The 3 bolts are M6 but I'm not to def on the length I had the same problem but managed to find one at work. If I were to have a guess though around 15mm to 20mm. They can be to long as though foul behind the pulley.

HTH any dramas give a call

Cheers mate,
I'll get a selection of screws from our stores (only stainless but that shouldn't be a problem).
Will let you know how I get on.

TAD

I changed mine yesterday.
For anyone considering this task I have the following tips.

First remove the silencer, this took me a bit of time because the pipe and silencer were rusted together.

Then remove the Waterpump pulley by removing the three socket head screws (allen key), with the alternator belt still on you have a chance to lock the pulley.

Then remove the Crank pulley, this is where I met my first problem.

One of these socket head screws is fubarred, the hex key just turns inside the screw.

I fixed this by hammering a torx bit (Nr. 40 I think) into the screw.


The screws are M8 and about 40mm long, I felt okay with the original screw so reused it.

Once you have these rotating bits off the rest is straight forward.
Airbox,
Rocker cover (officially you need a new gasket once you've removed it),

With 19mm socket on the end of the crank, no not on the end of the camshaft or the injection pump, rotate the engine until Nr. 1 cylinder at TDC.
Check that the TDC marks line up through the bell housing hole,

Lock off the back of the cam with either the special tool or a suitable piece of flat steel.
Lock off the injection pump with the dowel through pulley hole and its counterpart on the injection pump.

Remove the belt tensioner.

Fit a new belt and a new tensioner, then put it back together.

Mine was taken apart on Saturday so that the leaking fuel pump can be repaired.I got all my parts from brickwerks including a new crank bolt, inner crank pulley and crank seal.My bolts were all rounded aswell any ideas where is best to get some.Have looked on brickwerks but could not find them.

B and Q any DIY shop really

Titus A Duxass wrote:
Then remove the Waterpump pulley by removing the three socket head screws (allen key), with the alternator belt still on you have a chance to lock the pulley.

Then remove the Crank pulley, this is where I met my first problem.

Hi all,

I have a question about this. Why did you removed also the waterpump pulley? I only read how-to's that say to remove the crank pulley. Also, in Bentley's manual they do not even mention removing the crank pulley(?!) Is that true or my electronic copy of the manual is messed up?

thank you very much,

cheers.