Club 80-90 Forums

Just come home from work all ready to change the oil in our van, looking forward to that feel good factor only to see a big stain under the van on the drive. Further investigation revealed it to be brake/cluth fluid.
Ive narrowed it down to the clutch slave cylinder leaking.
The thing is i remember quit a few months ago seeing the same stain under the van just after changing the oil and at the time i was having issues with the sump plug so i put it down to that dripping. At the time i just kept an eye on the oil levels and in no time i had no more drips, thinking it must have settled down and all is well
Ive checked the fluid level and it was just on the min level but to be safe ive ordered a new cylinder which should arrive in a couple of days.
anyone have any experience of fitting this and would like to share any tips please?
cheers
G

the wiki -
your bestest friend in times of need -


Step-by-step replacing slave cylinder
geordie skydiver: Step-by-step replacing the clutch slave-cylinder
1. Jack up RH rear corner and remove that wheel, remember axle stands for safety!

2. Remove the two nuts and bolts holding the slave cylinder to the mounting bracket. (13mm)

3. Unscrew the hydraulic pipeline into the cylinder. (Cap the pipe with a plastic bag if you are going to leave it for any time)

4. Remove the slave cylinder from the bracket.

5. Place the new cylinder into the bracket. (after removing the blanking cap)

6. Refit the two bolts; bolt in through the bottom, nut on top. The rear one is a bit of a fiddle. Tighten to two white knuckles…

7. Refit the hydraulic pipe to its hole and tighten.

8. Remove the instrument console cover to gain access to the hydraulic fluid reservoir.

9. Remove the reservoir cap and top the hydraulic fluid right up to the brim. (Don’t worry its going to drop down soon)

10. With your helper sat in the driver’s seat, get them to pump the clutch pedal several times.

11. Get the helper to hold the pedal down while you turn the bleed nipple on the slave cylinder, some air/fluid should come out, so have a cloth handy to mop up spills, and please try not to get any on your paintwork.

12. Tighten up the nipple, have the helper release the clutch pedal, then push and hold it down again.

13. Repeat 11.

14. Repeat 12.

15. Continue doing this until you get clean fluid through the bleed nipple, and the clutch pedal has good pressure. (You may need to top up the fluid in the reservoir at some point, I didn’t)

16. Finally tighten the bleed nipple fully, replace the wheel and jack the vehicle down.

17. Replace reservoir cover and instrument console cover.

18. Take helper to the pub as thanks.

19. Enjoy much smoother clutch changes!




Bleeding
Bleeding brakes and clutches

Tips
brickinit: Had a quick check on the tech forum to see what the problems would be to replace badly leaking slave cylinder and, sure enough, several gallons of WD40 were needed on the bolts and the union holding the plastic feed pipe was solid and screaming "I'll round off if you come near me"

I got the union off by unbolting the cylinder from the mounting bracket and feeding it (still attached to the pipe) into a position where I could tighten the union into the jaws of my small 'engineers vice which I'd unclamped from the bench in the garage and put on the ground under the bus'

I then wacked the cylinder several times with a large hammer in the direction to slacken it and it eventually came loose!

Tools
Pipe spanners/hydraulics ring spanners/split jaw spanners
Pictures
Clutch - pictures
Retrieved from "https://club8090.co.uk/wiki/Ge ... eplacement"

Cheers Mate ill have a look at the wiki now
G

Let all the old fluid drain out after you disconnect old slave cylinder. This will not affect the brakes as they come from a lower level. Doing this way it renews all the old clutch fluid which was possibly causing the slave cylinder to fail in the first place!
Bleeding can be done just by keeping reservoir topped up and letting the fluid drain through. the bleeder is on the top so it all works well.
Dot 4 fluid.

WD40 was mentioned for getting rusted nuts and bolts apart.
PlusGas is LOADS better




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