Club 80-90 Forums

After neglecting my van 1.9DG for far too long the time has come to devote some time and money to it. This has mainly been brought about as a result of the MOT failure due to rusty rear archs. This is being sorted next month when it's booked in to MAD workshops in Bristol to have quite a few panels replaced/fabricated and generally sorted. I shall then be rollering her a nice shade of orange instead of the rusty blue/yellow/rusty colour all the neighbours have come to love.

But before this, I'm gonna get my hands dirty. Aside form a couple of minor coolant leaks and other little niggles, the main tasks are changing the clutch and sorting the stripped threads in the head that are just about holding the exhaust on and leaking gas. I'm going to drop the engine to tackle the studs as I won't have sufficient access to drill them out with the engine in. A few of the bolts (that replaced the studs a few years ago) can be turned by hand as the threads are stripped.

I plan on using the m10 to m8 studs sold by heritage in the link at the bottom. I'm thinking that this would negate the need to drill the flanges of the manifold to m10 and also I wouldn't get issues with the larger nuts fouling the exhaust (which could be painful!)

Does anyone have any experience of these m10 to m8 or had problems with fitting straigh m10 studs/bolts?
Also, can I then change the clutch with the gearbox in situ and the engine out. I'm pretty sure I can I just need re-assuring!

Cheers Folks.
http://www.vwheritage.com/vw_act_search ... &veh1Type=" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Not done the larger diameter 10mm bolts/studs but did put thread inserts in some stripped exhaust holes.
Seemed to me a better option as once you have purchased the kit, M8 x 1.25, the extra inserts are quite cheap.
I think I paid around £25 for the kit from Uni-thread but there are other brands.
The stepped studs would be more expensive and with inserts you have equipment for other repairs of that size.
The larger 10mm hex bolts or nuts may be awkward in some of the exhaust flange connections due to limited room and access.
The inserts give the same additional thread strength into the aluminium as larger thread bolts/studs.
Saw in a post here that someone had made studs from stainless threaded rod (allthread), that sounds to me good way to go.

Must admit my first thought was a helicoil type insert but after researching on here I've seen mention of issues of them coming out when removing. I suppose if the inserts them selves are cheap that's not too much of a problem. Were the ones you used easy to put in?

Quite easy and quick to put in - after the first one or two!
These are blind holes so need a bottom hole tap. These cut the thread to nearly the bottom end of the hole but actually the inserts are a bit shorter.
The procedure is to drill out the hole,
Use the tap to cut new, larger thread to suit insert, its worth the few £'s to buy a small, cheap tap wrench, helps to keep the tap straight and true, there's not any other good way to do this, spanners and vice grips really aren't suitable.
Wind in the insert, a drop of Loctite can be used here, if wanted, to fix the insert,
Break off the tang used to wind the insert in,
Job done.
Tip - Use a bit of lubricant when tapping aluminium. WD40 type of thing will do, this stops the ally tearing and choking the tap.
In practice, the inserts resist winding out as they are a little larger than the hole and, realistically, how often do you remove the exhaust?
I haven't had this problem at all. Do grease all studs or bolts when installing, can save lot of trouble in the future and help stop inserts winding out.
Not copper grease as aluminium and copper don't like each other when wet and/or salty from the winter road.
The kit contains drill, tap, winding in tool, breakoff tool and a selection of stainless steel inserts. This is from Uni-thread but assume all will do similar. http://www.uni-thread.com metric coarse, M8 x 1.25.
This is what I used but the choice is, of course, up to yourself, also others may have suggestions to consider.
Post back here to tell us how you get on with this.
Good luck.

Thanks very much Croc, really helpful information. I was about to ask you what a tap wrench is but having just done a quick search I find that I already have one. I'll let you know how I get on.

Anyone have an answer with regards to the clutch? Can I change the clutch with the engine out, gearbox left in?

I think he means a T bar, a means by which to turn the tap securely and squarely with force.

Yes, what Hacksawbob says, a 'T' bar that the thread cutting tap mounts into. Thanks bob.
Also when cutting thread don't turn tap in continuously, turn the tap forwards turn 1/2 then backwards 1/4 turn and screw out often to clear cutting threads of the tap of ally bits and re-lube with spray can.

Clutch. This is entirely mounted on the flywheel so ideal to do with engine only out. You may need tool to align clutch plate with spigot bearing when re-assembling, this must be centralised or you can't get gearbox remounted. Have a look into centre of flywheel before you remove clutch from flywheel and all should be revealed as to the alignment needed.
Consider replacing clutch throw out bearing at this time too, it stays in the bell housing of the gearbox. Probably new spigot bearing, in end of engine crankshaft, centre of flywheel, too. These items are quite cheap. Both of these need engine and gearbox to be separated if they need replacing later.

.....and new starter motor bush while you are there....

Good shout, think I've actually got one kicking about somewhere.

Any other sensible preventative maintainence whilst I'm dropping the engine? Already ordered the front and rear crankshaft seals.