Club 80-90 Forums

Symptoms: Heater will not shut off! Cable works valve OK, so before I go and buy a new one, should I suspect the blue pressure cap which does seem very reluctant to push any coolant out into the catch tank?
There's a thread on samba about the very subject right now (not me):

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=472142" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

There's not anything in the wiki about this subject, despite the faulty batch of dalek caps that hit the market a while back...

its more likely that your valve isn't closing completely. Drop the spare check which way is off while someone works the valve in the cab, then see if there is any more travel in it. move it fully closed manually then put a bit of tape on the sliders to remind you not to operate it til you fix it. If you suspect a faulty cap they aren't expensive and you could swap it out and know you have a quality part in an important place.

I did find that the lever fixing screw on the valve had worked loose, so I sorted that but it made no difference. So I set it to cold manually in the time honoured fashion (drop clamshell, use it as a backrest and get a faceful off dirt once again) and still nothing but hot air once the engine's warmed up, even from stone cold.
I think I'll swap the dalek off a "resting" bus and see what happens. There's more that one thing going on here.

I should have said that this is on the Microbru with it's "troubled" EJ22 conversion...

pressure cap has no influence on the flow through the heater.. the valve must be bust.. flow = hot, no flow = cold.

I had a gen vw cap that was faulty, its going back.. wouldnt allow any coolant/pressure out, coolant seeped from all over the system and engine when good and hot..

Id be inclined to agree^^^^^^^^^^.it doesnt matter what engine is fitted , if the valve is goosed open then it will pass hot water no matter what,
mike

So the valve must be broken internally. Yet another bumsteer from the "heavy thinkers" at samba then?
They do seem to like a bit of good old yankee enginuity (aka bodgineering) rather than fixing the fault properly

havent read them much as cant find the time to waaaaaaaaaaaaaaadddddddddddddddddeee through it all, got some good points they have but..
when you think about it as no doubt you do its quite simple really, you got a heater matrix that has water in it.. this is supplied by a pipe from your lump and said pipe has a valve fitted if valve is bust in open or even slightly open then water will flow , on mine if its fully off and I crack it open a touch it gets warm.
mike
nother job to do then ,pity its sumer else you could have left it

metalmick8y wrote:nother job to do then ,pity its sumer else you could have left it

Or get used to tropical conditions!! I have....

fortunately, the van that is suffering is an 84 (originally a panel) with the basic fitment....so the blowers on the far edges of the dash that are forward facing are just open to the outside air.....and therefore can let cooler air in to overcome the still warm air that is let in by the heater matrix not shutting off properly due to bent cables!

Its not high on the to do list....

Em
xx

you could always block at source.