Club 80-90 Forums

Hi

I have a really frustrating fault with my '90 T25 1.9 DG in that it simply refuses to tick over from cold. The only way I can get it to run is if I either hold the throttle open for min 30 - 60 seconds or turn the idle screw in a few turns.

The problem with the first option is that it's not really ideal and even then the van runs lumpy until hot and with the second option once hot it idles way too fast.

Here comes the frustrating bit...I have been over and over this van with nearly ever component checked and or replaced and it still isn't fixed.

The van had this problem when I bought it so it has never run from cold for me. It has a Vega engine which judging by how clean it is hasn't covered very many miles and the following items have either been replaced or checked:

Carb
plugs
leads
dizzy
fuel hoses and filters
tank
fuel pump
coil
Intake manifold
Air filter
vacuum hoses
Ignition control unit
Hydraulic tappets reset to basic settings

I've had a respected auto electrician check the inlet manifold heater, the coil in the choke and the relay that operates these but it still won’t run.

I’ve set the timing and the CO screw has been adjusted to the basic three turns out setting but not put on a machine to check.

The van is running a pre ’85 exhaust system but surely this isn’t effecting it’s cold starting?

If anybody fancies a challenge please help all suggestions welcome!

Thanks
Sam

Have you 'set' the choke first before firing it up ? Is it a standard Pierburg or another shy te JK Weber ?

Ian.

Ok assuming you have a pierburg 2e3

when hot you need a CO reading from a gas anyliser to tell you if the mixture is correct.. adjust accordingly
then adjust the tickover to 900 rpm
take off the pankake duct and check the choke flap position.. should be straight up and wide open.

let the engine go stone cold
check the choke flap position.. should be shut
depress the accelerator FULLY
choke flap should be shut
the fast idle cam should rotate and hold the throttle butterfly open on the first lobe. (look down into the venturi)

if it doesn't you need to rotate the choke bi metal spring housing till it does.
if it still doesn't then inspect the bi metal spring for breakage.

come back here with your findings

Ian Hulley wrote:Have you 'set' the choke first before firing it up ? Is it a standard Pierburg or another shy te JK Weber ?

Ian.

Hi Ian,

Yes have depressed throttle fully before starting but makes no odds. It is a 2E also.

Thanks
Sam

Hi Kev,

About the only thing I haven't done is had the CO checked. I've looked at the timing myself although without a rev counter I've had to guess at the revs with the vacuum discontected. I've then set the CO to the defualt 3 turns out.

Do you think this is something that I need a professional with an anyliser/rev counter to look at? The reason for the uncertainty is that this morning I transfered the carb from a low mileage same model T25 I have and it made absolutely no difference to way it ran despite the low miler running about as sweet as you can get.

Thanks
Sam

so
You fitted a carb from another engine and it made no difference to cold start ?

and the carb from the non-starter was fine on the starter?

Had a bit of a result...

Spoke to Vege to ask what the compression levels should be and they had my engine on file as one with a problem marked against it. Turns out the previous owner had problems with it and sold it to me before resolving (really nice of him by the way as he denied any knowledge of the new engine being installed). Vege have now agreed to have the engine back and rebuild at a very resonable price.

A result on two counts.. 1. I'm not going mad as it was the engine a fault, 2. I get a trustworthy engine in the back of my camper.

Can't thank Vege enough and will use/recommend them for any replacement engines that I or anybody else I know need.

Thanks for your suggestions guys, much appreciated.

Sam

So that's ANOTHER Vege engine with faults then ? With all those 'brand new' parts in there I find that MOST surprising ?