Club 80-90 Forums

Hi Everyone
I have the daunting task of replacing the clutch on my van next Monday. The WIKI recomends gearbox removal from below on a trolly jack. I wonder if anyone has done this job by removing the engine and leaving gearbox in situ as you would on a beetle. I'm not a great fan of laying under motors with a gearbox balanced precariously on a jack, so was thinking engine out may be easier when it comes to reassembly. My van is a 1983 1.9 DF waterboxer.

Any advice geratly appreciated
Cheers Andy

The WBX engine has loads of plumbing to undo, remove and reseal (laughs ironically) the gearbox only has the clutch slave cylinder to remove (carefully) the starter motor, gearchange linkage, the inner CV bolts and the earth strap to remove ... all usually straightforward IF you take your time and note where things came from (especially the linkage mounting bracket to the box).

Ian

BTW if you're not a) a fan of lying under vans or b) very rich then you've bought the wrong vehicle

I prefer the engine out method too.
As there is usualy a thing or two that needs doing with it gone.
Yeah it's self abuse but hey....

Box out is easier IMHO.. less work.. but if you are dropping the engine, its easy to drop the box all still connected.. then seperate and reassemble on the ground and refit..

I agree....box out would be considerably easier than engine out on a wasserboxer.
I am also told from a good source (Stuart Hopewell from Volksrod Beach Buggies) that there is a way to split the two, replace the clutch without actually dropping the box (although I haven't done this myself) I don't know the exact details but he tells me it is something he has done alot. I suspect this might be quite awkward working through a small gap but i thought I'd mention it as a possibility.
Otherwise I would say the actual box refitting is a two man job (man handling it back into position)

Martin

i dropped my box out last week to replace the rear crank seal, piece of cake & certainly easier than taking the motor out, exhaust still in place & not loosing all the coolant & bleeding etc, all done in a couple of hours....

agree with above , box out in about 45 mins

job can be done in under 2 hrs

by the way are you running a 215mm clutch? if so i have a new 3 piece kit hear £50!

Dam..... I've just shelled out £100 on a kit 215mm. Oh well thats the way things go.
I've decided to do the gearbox out underneath thing, gona change gearbox oil while its out, any recomendations for the best oil? mine is a bit stiff into 1st when hot (even though I,ve changed the gearleaver bushes)
Cheers Andy

andyspanners.21 wrote:Dam..... I've just shelled out £100 on a kit 215mm. Oh well thats the way things go.
I've decided to do the gearbox out underneath thing, gona change gearbox oil while its out, any recomendations for the best oil? mine is a bit stiff into 1st when hot (even though I,ve changed the gearleaver bushes)
Cheers Andy

Stiff into first when hot could well be cured by the new clutch replacement.

The popular gear oil type is now to go for a slightly thinner semi synthetic 75W-90 but it must say GL4 as well as GL5 on it's spec.

Martin

Comma SX75w90 seems to work well (my velle for last 12 years)
Fuchs syngear 75w90 (in my syncro)
Millers do one too..

MUST be dual rated GL4/5 as Martin said, although the Comma SX wasnt when i used it, but has been fine (done a second change after 5 years)..

Ho HUm
Gearbox is out without to much trauma. Cluth slipping because of gearbox oil contamination from leeking seal in front of gearbox. So my next question is ... How much play should there be in 1st motion shaft, mine has about 5mm of play when measured at end of shaft.

Cheers Andy

not a problem , remember thge spigot holds it in place.........

so check the spigot bearing for wear!

if your ordering a shaft seal may as well order the spigot and fit new just in case!

Need to do my Diesel clutch before we go to France next month, my usual guy is booked up for 6 weeks. I am umming and ahhing whether to try it myself, but I ain't got a garage or drive so it would be on the street and I've never done a clutch before


Mark

Hi Mark
If you do this job yourself you are gona need a big trolly jack and a pair af axle stands or car ramps ( I used ramps) and dont forget to support the gearbox end of the engine when you remove the gearbox mounting. I used a length of stout rope, passing it through a hole in the body above the engine and winding it around the exhaust manifold. Someone to help would make this job much easier.
Have FUN Andy.

we support the engine with sout rope onto a piece of wood that spans the engine bay.

Done 2 clutches beside road......but two peeps is sooooooo much easier.

Em
xx