Club 80-90 Forums

I just bought this filter and cleaning solutions as listed below, at what I thought was a great price
What do you think?
The reasons were cost, coupled with a choked Air filter which gave extreme
pressure imbalance across the turbo.
This caused oil to bypass the Turbo seals in heavy rain on the M20
and smoked out the leafy suburb where I had to stop.
I removed the filter, and EGT's dropped back to a minimum
and no more smoke, even after 30 minuets at maximum velocity.
Turns out that what I thought was a failing turbo was lack of maintenance
Thinking back, It first started giving trouble on the way up to Coney Farm, also when it was chucking it down.

http://www.candrenterprises.co.uk/shop/air-filters/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

1 K&N Replacement Air Filter VW Transporter 3 24 80-92, 1.6 ( 74 - 92) Turbo Part#: 38-9103 £40.26 £40.26
1 K&N Cleaner and Re-oiler Kit Universal - K&N Cleaner / Reoiler Kit Part#: KNCK £9.14 £9.14

Subtotal £49.40
Delivery £6.25
ORDER TOTAL £55.65

Well Nick, that's a good finding that all diesels owners should be aware of. Since finding consumption creeping up after a leaky exh manifold, and a consequent dirty filter I always keep a good eye on the original VW filter which think is adequate unless in very dusty conditions (cleaned it nightly with brush and vacuum or compressor air when driving in dusty Pyreneees)

Have you any piccies of the one you bought to judge installation...

Nick have you got all the original pipework and the original syncro filter system ? If so then you shouldn't be getting water in the filter, me thinks you've got a split pipe somewhere or one missing - the air filter canister should have a hose feed to it which is plugged into the chassis above the turbo cooler air pump originally, air is drawn in via the vents on the nearside back of the cab and then along the horizontal bed support to the rear 1/4 where the pipe is fitted, the vents in the side panel don't affect it they are just for engine bay ventilation
syncro JX air filter case has a built in cyclone which should stop any dirt particles or water droplets getting to the filter

Hi Aidan
To be honest, after I had an intake hose collapse (new years eve) I lined it as a temporary measure to
Get me running and that’s how it stayed. I just don’t seem to be able to make the time at the moment.
As for all the correct hoses, the cyclone filter is all that remains of the original set up.
The pipe from the clean air duct is too short to reach
So it’s drawing in warm air from the engine bay at the moment.
There, I’ve come clean, and now it’s all come on top
I suppose I’ll have to do something about it.
I had a price for some intake hose, but it’s a fairly stiff price.
Any ideas?
As for the filter Clive, I ordered it today. When it turns up
I'll let you know what my thoughts are.
I think that the blocked air filter also drew the crankcase breather valve closed
causing crankcase compression and other forced oil leaks with it (which have now stopped).
Is that possible? Has that 'push-in' oil separator in the cam cover got a disc vale contained within? (1Z)
I can’t think why else it simultaneously stopped leaking oil.
After an hours worth of hard running, it was droping at least two tablespoons of oil in the tray

HarryMann wrote:Well Nick, that's a good finding that all diesels owners should be aware of. Since finding consumption creeping up after a leaky exh manifold, and a consequent dirty filter I always keep a good eye on the original VW filter which think is adequate unless in very dusty conditions (cleaned it nightly with brush and vacuum or compressor air when driving in dusty Pyreneees)

Have you any piccies of the one you bought to judge installation...

Yep did get a bit dusty didn't it?

Pete wrote:


I keep on looking but...
can't find no dust, no,
can't find no dust no,
can't ...

makes for interesting reading nick, glad you have got it sorted, i was looking for different after market air filters since i swapped my engine over as i was running the standard mv air box the wrong way round (air entering where the afm was and filtering from the inide out). basicly a tempary bodge to get it running. hunting around on ebay and working out what i wanted i found one of these

http://www.pipercross.net/fastroad/products_viper.asp" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

nothing bad to report up to date with about 3000m on it so far and cant be bad value a £22 puls £5 postage, when you look a what they cost new.

neil

Diesels eh? Too damn fussy about their filtration, oil and fuel both. Glad my moment of madness has passed and I'm back to normal

I may not know a lot about diesels, but I do know that an overdue fuel filter will also cause poor running and loss of power

Pipercross wrote:Using 'velocity air force', each Viper air intake directs cold air directly into the engine. The cold air feed takes air from an area of cold, dense air straight into the Viper's inlet, swirling it through a unique Pipercross reverse-flow air filter contained within a carbon fibre heat shield, then into a ram pipe to increase the air pressure before feeding it into the induction system.

The carbon fibre heat shield protects the air charge from under bonnet heat keeping it cool -and therefore more dense -thus introducing more oxygen into the combustion mixture,giving increased power.

The reverse flow technology filter and 150mm ram pipe make use of the physical phenomenon of air tending to move towards surface area's, creating more air flow on the edge rather than in the centre of the inlet. The unique design of the filter cone and the inlet 'tune' the moving air flow to increase its speed and therefore its pressure maximising the laminar air flow into the engine, again resulting in increased power.

What a load of gobbledegook by a berk who obviously has never seen the inside of an engineering department, let alone a wind tunnel and badly needs a turbulent boundary layer up his whatsit

The minute you read 'laminar flow' you just know they haven't a clue about aerod, fluid dynamics or flow...

And as for cold air, if you aren't picking it up high up then its at road (hot) temperature, so whatveer you do, it isn't cold. And if you aren't doing 120 mph, the ram effect is as good as inisgnificant

Grrrrrrrrrrr!

Not that it isn't a good inlet system and filter Neil, just total "Balls" from a PR Pratt - quite normal for 2011 - it seems.

I just remember that if I didn't change the air and fuel filters every 5000 miles along with the oil, it suddenly made a big difference to the performance of the VM 2.5 Turbo D...

Its a good idea to check em frequently during winter because the salt builds up very quickly. I have a stainless steel filter in my VR6 and was really surprised at how badly choked it was after a couple of months.

Fitted the filter, and it is exactly the same diamensions
as the original with good quality powdercoat metal end caps,
and stainless fliter gauze's.
As you would expect a good guarentee.
A million miles or ten years(against materials and manufacture), which ever comes sooner.
You have to use their cleaners.

Just been talking with the K&N tech team
they said their filter will provide enough air for
500 bhp!
I was a convert anyway.