Club 80-90 Forums

Previous topic on Engine & Exhaust has thrown up another question about the cooling system.....Can early and late cooling systems be fitted onto the same engine?

I'm replacing my 1.9 DG, the 2 engines have different cooling pipework arrangement....The coolant pipe set up thats in my camper is in good condition, I'd like to conect them to the new engine. Pipework is different, but if the engine itself has 'holes' in the same places then it shouldn't be a problem should it??

Should be fine, i've put a DG engine where a DF engine was using the same colling system, just worth noting that both have their parts that can be hard to locate if anything breaks or wears out. Sometimes it's cheaper to make up the hoses from hose manufacturers who can supply various connectors etc than buy new ones. Cheers.

yep
and there's more pipe work available for later systems

if moving to later style system, with small bleed pipe under and around engine hatch and small bleed hoses, make sure you use the 'coolant distributor' to ensure flow through the right hand cylinders, 1 & 2.
This later system has some self bleeding capability so is preferable if a little more complicated.
also what kevtherev says.
Various barbed hose fittings inc elbows and size change connectors are available from marine chandlers, boat parts, shops for the awkward bits!

Thanks....Just to be clear, it appears the younger engine has the older cooling system??

Current engine - 1.9 DG with the later cooling system pipework.
New (to me!) engine - 1.9 DG with earlier cooling system pipework.

I want to keep the current (later) cooling pipework & connect it to the new engine. Is this possible without having to modify things or buy more items??

You're going over ground that's been trodden 1,000 times before ... DO A SEARCH. I already told you what could have happened in your other thread.

Once the engine is stripped of it's ancillarys (i.e. the water pump) unless it's a 2.1 it's exactly the same early OR late. If fitting an early into a late swap the pump and all the late engine pipework (i.e. the pipe, short hose and pipe from the right bank to the pump, the hose from the left bank to the bleed ring, the 'S' hose from pot 1 to the distribution tower and fit the thermostat housing, hoses and the pump>thermostat housing metal pipe .... all of these will be on the 'late' system engine you've bought. Otherwise use the links I sent you and Brickwerks to collect the other parts.

Ian

Apologies Ian,
I've been reading similar threads & I know I'm going over old ground.

It's just that after lots of time & money spent on my van, I find further complications - It's final straw time where I get my garage to swap the engine and possibly get more surprises (exhaust? clutch?.), or I call it quits and sell.....

Your info is much appreciated.

2 sizes of clutch (and therfore flywheel) 228mm is the most common, be stupid not to swap that while engine's out. Check flywheel, check gearbox input shaft for leaks, grease spigot bearing (FIT ONE if the engine's out of an automatic).

2 types of exhaust late and early, again see VW Heritage's site for piccies or Just Kampers, DON'T fit mild steel, false economy and making yourself further complications later.

Late engine mount cradle has the mounting points for the late exhaust silencer supports and strap arrangements, early doesn't have this. The rest of the engine bar and the mounts themselves are the same ... again change these while the engine's out ... it's another stooopid job with the engine in.

Check for leaks round oil pump housing, dipstick tube and oil filler tube ... again these are awkward/impossible to do with the engine in. Likewise check the oil pressure sender near the oil pump, if in doubt replace FROM BRICKWERKS.

Does you van have the Buzzer of Doom wiring and pod ? Later engine probably will have and early possibly won't ... this'll need sorting too.

See, there's more to it than you thought.

E D I T ... one for Kev ... Check the sump plug will undo

Does you van have the Buzzer of Doom wiring and pod ?

Well thats cheered me right up!

I'm not sure, how can I tell? maybe I need to upload a couple of photos...The clutch & exhaust I can deal with, I have both engine mounts, starter motor etc.... I'll check the oil pump housing etc. Thanks ...

BoD systems have 2 brown wires in the engine bay ... they go from a connector at front left hand side of the engine bay and then one wire goes to the low pressure sensor between the pushrod tubes on left head, the other wire crosses the left head and drops down between the waterpump and the crankshaft pulley. 2 wires = BoD, 1 wire = non-BoD.

Ian

All the engines are the same to look at and bolt anything to
If your van has a late cooling system then swap all the components off the tired engine to the fresh one.. (check waterpump though.. as you may want to fit a new one as a precaution) DO NOT be tempted to try and bodge the old cooling system parts into your late van, BAD mistake and I have yet to see one come anywhere near close to working properly..

If you have an early cooling system van then swap the early parts onto the fresh engine..... again its near imposible to make the 2 systems work by bodging them in... so DONT....

his van is late, as is the water sys on the old engine, so, its just swapping the water sys off the old engine onto the new one, simple and straight forward. The only cost will be new gaskets and if you break anything during swapover.

You can used either zorst as well, whichever is best condition, but late zorst is loads better than early IMO, as you can replace it bit by bit as it fails with Brickwerks stainless and not have for fork out for it all in one go.

Mocki wrote:his van is late, as is the water sys on the old engine,.

Yes I know.. tried to make it a nice "rounded" statement so anyone else looking would understand also...

Thanks for the input!

Yes, late coolant set up in the van, to retain and connect up to new engine....

Not such a simple job then, I think bill for swapping the engine over will increase with the coolant pipe work involved....I could make a start & remove the coolant pipes from the new engine - but I don't want to make things worse....Think I will need to remove tow bar & electrics to enable engine removal, might just remove and not replace as I haven't used it...

bertnuggit wrote: Think I will need to remove tow bar & electrics to enable engine removal, might just remove and not replace as I haven't used it...

Leave it be, you don't need to touch it.