Club 80-90 Forums

Hi just wondering if any one else has had similar issues and did you find any solution.

We have a B reg rhd t3 1900 DG bus & the bus drives lovely, well maybe a bit tapity but otherwise fine.

Then while driving out of the blue if you try and go over 50mph it wont go any faster and starts to pop and backfire, drop below 49mph and it drives fine?

If you put it in to neutral and coast for a bit or pull over for 5 mins it rectifies itself and drives fine again pulls like a train and cruises eaily at 65-70.

a few months ago we did have a problem with the bus refusing to tick over and just kept cutting out and running really rough and having to rev it hard to keep it going, basically imposible to drive. To fix that i used half a can of carb cleaner in the carb and it sorted it fine and its driven fine since then until this has started. i am thinking that i do the same and put the carb cleaner in again it will run ok again for a while, but i assume that there is a bigger issue or something that needs sorting?? I am guessing its a carb issue but as i say i am guessing.

any one had any simmilar issues or advice it would be great??

Also anyone suggest / recommend a local garage, we are in hastings east sussex

Gaz

change the fuel filter and air filter classic symptoms!

Will try that ...............

HI

When I first had my van I had very similar symptoms, found out that the vacuum pipe leading from the carb to the air filter was collapsing when the engine warmed up. I have since changed all of my vacuum pipes for some silicon ones. Cheep fix if this is what it turns out to be.

Nic

Hi again

Oh and it might be worth checking the distributor clamp is tight as it couold cause similar symtoms.

Where abouts is the fuel filter located, looked in the engine bay and I cannot see one, I am assuming it must be in line somewhere under the bus?

looksed at the air filter its dirty but not bad bad but deffo worth changing

looked inside the dizzy cap and its a bit corroded so i so cleaned them and the rotor air, thaken the air filter out for the moment which leaves the fuel lilter if i can find it? I assume its one of the small see through plastic types?

Gaz

NicBeeee wrote:HI

When I first had my van I had very similar symptoms, found out that the vacuum pipe leading from the carb to the air filter was collapsing when the engine warmed up. I have since changed all of my vacuum pipes for some silicon ones. Cheep fix if this is what it turns out to be.

Nic

Only thing is that its doing it straight away even when cold?
Where did you get the vacum pipes from?

NicBeeee wrote:Hi again

Oh and it might be worth checking the distributor clamp is tight as it couold cause similar symtoms.

that seems ok

been out there playing with it tryed the crb cleaner trick but its not having it at all?

Starts on the key everytime but just wants to cut out all the time and you have to rev it to keep it going.

wondering if its the diaphragm in the carb? wondering if i just get one of the rebuild kits on brickworks

http://www.brickwerks.co.uk/shop?page=s ... uct_id=704" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

any one done this job before?

Fuel filter is on the offside of the van 4" behind the petrol tank, change these regularly (they cost about a £1) and make sure some muppetry hasn't fitted another one somewhere you don't know about.

Sounds like it's time you treated the old girl to a thorough service and started a service regime.

Ian

Hi Gaz

I wasnt aware that you had problems with starting, I assumed you were just wondering why the sudden loss of power, in light of this I would second Ian`s suggestion of giving it a good service first to eliminate any simple problems. Also cleaning the rotar arm and dizzy caps contacts could have a detrimental effect if you used a coarse material like emery or sandpaper as it could open the gap. I purchased my vacuum pipes from ebay at £1.11 per m + post

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/190425172515?ru=h ... 3D1&_rdc=1" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

but they are readily available from other motorfactors. You only need 2 meters of 3mm ID for the job.

Nic

update, right the list:

found at least 1 vacume pipe completely perrished (all changed)

fuel pump rod slightly shorter than it should be (changed)

and a carb rebuild kit fitted

and a new ht lead set

now running sweet!!


thanks for the advise .............................................