Club 80-90 Forums

over the pushrods. Nothing on the "top side" of the engine, but good regular drip over the pushrod tudes. The water is clean...haven't checked the oil yet though. Noticed when I arrived at work this morning.
Any idea as to whether it could be a pipe in this area(?) or the water jacket itself leaking? Any info before I speak to the local mechanic would be greatly received cheers.

Well hopefully it WILL be a pipe that is leaking and running down from above to near the pushrods.
The only way to tell is to clean and inspect around the area.
Is it the nearside or the offside ?


I say "hopefully" because if it is the head to crank-case seal you had better get ready to spend lots of money

There is a good (though long) thread with pictures about leaking seals here =
https://club8090.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=37&t=52374" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; - though we must not "jump the gun" - it may be something that is much less disastrous !

Talk to us about what mechanic you intend to take this to for an examination.
T25 experienced mechanics are worth their weight in gold as your average mechanic is often either reluctant to work on our vans or may be not competent to do so (despite what they may tell you !!)



Fingers crossed for you mate

Cheers. Hopefully not too disasterious. I've booked my summer trip already and WILL be going.

The leak is on the drivers side (RHD van). Haven't read the thread yet...will save that for lunch time reading!
The mechnic is good and has done me proud since ownership of the van. He's very much old school - just finished rebuilding a TR6, Talbot high top and other classics. He's honest and realiable so can't ask for much more. AND reasonbly priced.

I'll let you know the diagnosis.....

willard wrote: The mechanic is good and has done me proud since ownership of the van. He's very much old school - just finished rebuilding a TR6, Talbot high top and other classics.
He's honest and reliable so can't ask for much more. AND reasonably priced.

That is good news re your mechanic

If you are confident that he is happy working on T25's may we add his details to our list of T25 competent mechanics in our "wiki" as per here = https://club8090.co.uk/wiki/Ga ... 5_Specific" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Also see = https://club8090.co.uk/wiki/Pe ... _head_leak" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Once's he done the diagnosis I'll confirm, but to date I have had no issues with him working ont he van. He has worked on several in the area. They are Bridge Road Motors, Bridge Road, St Austell, Cornwall. 01726 66233. Always very helpful and understanding!

I'm keeping my fingers crossed it ain't gonna break the bank...looks like the worst case scenario cheap option is a new (replacement) engine! "Merde!"

Praying like there's no tomorrow!!!

If it does turn out to be "worst case" as in damaged seals, there are plenty of folk out there that have replaced them successfully without having to resort to a new engine (£1000 fitted)
But it is a case of firstly luck, re breaking head & exhaust studs, secondly getting good quality seals and the special goo (2 types needed) to assemble it all and thirdly the skill and experience of the guy wielding the spanners ! Note = buy parts from Brickwerks, he only sells quality stuff

p.s. - I didn't say this, but some folks have got relief by using this stuff (NOTE = DO NOT use Radweld !!) = http://www.speeding.co.uk/acatalog/K_Seal.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

There's a drain screw between the pushrods ... could be from there. I wouldn't get my hopes up though if I were you.

Which head is it ? nearside or offside ?

Sorry, Ian.

Drivers side...willtake a look under the engine when I get in from work - will definately be loking for that drain screw. Not holding my breath as it's never the easy items that go wrong with my kit!
In the long run a replacement motor may be a wise move...just got to convince the Minister for Home Affairs...I'll let you all know what the outcome is and what gets "sanctioned".

Okay...I have taken a look under the van and can report the following. Between each set of push rods there is a recess (2 per side). 1 recess on each side has a bolt inserted - this I assume is the drain point that Mr Hulley spoke of - both of these are dry
The second recess on each side has a lug(?) installed....and her in lies the problem. The one on the passenger side (RH drive van) is dry and has guarantee void if removed. The other one on the drivers side is wet. I cleaned all the gerenal road crud and oil from it and it is definately leaking.
The question is are these "lugs" replacable, can it be welded, can it even be removed (is is completely smooth although there does seem to be a line all around the recess).
If any of you are any the wiser your wisdomful comments would be much appreciated. I really don't think the head has gone - the engine note hasn't changed and it has as much power as it's always had. Feeling a little releived, but will be happier when discussed with me grease monkey next week.
Thanks for all your imput so far. It has been very useful.

gonna need a pic to explain it better!

Thought that might be the case. Been a while trying to retrive my photobucket account and uploading the pics.

Anyway, pic 01 shows the drain point for the water jacket between the push rods (closest to the front of the vehicle)
http://i931.photobucket.com/albums/ad15 ... ge0007.jpg" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
Pic 02 shows the recess where the elak is - it has guarantee void is removed stamped on the flat face of the recess (that's why I think there is a lug in it rather than it being part of the casting).
http://i931.photobucket.com/albums/ad15 ... ge0004.jpg" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
Anyway, hopefully the pics will make some sence of whats going on under the van.

I think I may use some hot water on the rest of the engine when the problems sorted cos it's real shiny under there!

Not having a vw engine in my van to check exactly but that looks like a core plug ( part of the casting process they have to leave holes) and the hole is then plugged with a core plug, should be able to buy new ones and insert a new one that should stop the leak, its not as bad as you think!

Jamesc76, Thanks for the info. Sounds like a bit of a bonus. I had visions of a new engine or major works with a big bill to follow. It's booked into the garage for Friday next week so hopefully they can confirm your diagnosis and fix it.
It's defibeately not coming from and seals/ gasket areas so thats a bonus and there are no cracks anywhere so hopefully its a "simple" job to put right.
Thanks again...and I'll let you know if you got 100% in your test!
Cheers