Club 80-90 Forums

1. does copper grease improveelectrical conductivity and keep out water? I would have thought the copper content would work better than silicone grease silicone being a poor conductor.
2. will copper grease 'eat' coolant hoses/ HT lead caps / injector pump electrode covers (basically anything rubber), if I get it on them
3. Do you need to change rotor arm AND dizzy cap at the same time
4. What should a 2.1 DJ be timed to, do you need to remove the vacuum advance like with the DG to do it?
5. Any reason why I wont be able to fit a short shifter on a Syncro?
6. if a tree falls in a forest and nobodies there to hear it does a butterfly flapping its wings in China start a hurricane in Peru?

Hacksawbob wrote:1. does copper grease improveelectrical conductivity and keep out water? I would have thought the copper content would work better than silicone grease silicone being a poor conductor.

No, copper grease is still a poor conductorm, although better than normal grease

2. will copper grease 'eat' coolant hoses/ HT lead caps / injector pump electrode covers (basically anything rubber), if I get it on them

i'm not sure? let me know?

3. Do you need to change rotor arm AND dizzy cap at the same time

yes, there is a tolerence in the distance the spark will jump and remain ontime and strong, however if you need to get out of trouble, one or the other will work with the other, but not to be recommended

4. What should a 2.1 DJ be timed to, do you need to remove the vacuum advance like with the DG to do it?

10deg as per pulley marks, and bypass the ISU - haynes is correct iirc

5. Any reason why I wont be able to fit a short shifter on a Syncro?

Not that i know of, but check with IOMSi or what ever hes called now to be sure

6. if a tree falls in a forest and nobodies there to hear it does a butterfly flapping its wings in China start a hurricane in Peru?

maybe, although i was told just the other day that it didnt.....

ta. although I was really hoping for a definitive on that last one, Harryman recomended NoCorrode for electrical contacts but I cant find a source....

Try Tectyl Corrosion Inhibitor; Foden used to spray the stuff onto all electrical equipment and chrome/stainless/aluminium accessories on new trucks destined for New Zealand as deck cargo. If it'll live through winter storms at sea, I'm sure it'll keep your electrics happy. It's a pale gold colour when it dries, so you can periodically visually check that it's still there too.

Thoroughly horrible stuff to work with, mind; I'd recommend wearing latex gloves when working with it until it dries, as it sticks to anything like sh*t to a blanket.

Try petroleum jelly for electrical connection. used for years , still on the same pot from 20yrs ago.
no cotrode is a very expensive coloured version, I reckon.

http://www.valvolineeurope.com/index.as ... 88eb634434
would that be this stuff? looks good for wires and exposed contacts but not for electrical contacs I think.
been thinking about it seems there are 2 things that need doing keeping moisture out, while improving conductivity, grease/oil based products keep out the water but tend not to be good conductors, Ive heard of dielectric grease being used which is actually a poor conductor, but the fact it keeps out the moisture makes up for the lack of conductivity.

Clive will be able to give you a definitive on the butterfly thing, although his reply will only be accurate in the Cliveiverse.

Clive will be able to give you a definitive on the butterfly thing, although his reply will only be accurate in the Cliveiverse.

Er, it'd be accurate anywhere it applies, but only applicable if it applies

so...

Clive will be able to give you a definitive on the butterfly thing, although his reply might only be applicable in the Cliveiverse.

Anyway, I'd say a definitive 'yes', though I was also told 'no' the other day too... maybe there's a very pessimistic troll about?

Try petroleum jelly for electrical connection. used for years , still on the same pot from 20yrs ago.
no corrode is a very expensive coloured version, I reckon.

Vaseline should be found in most homes, and therefore readily available and used for years for battery terminals, amongst other things.

Whether it's as good as NoCrode for low current smaller connectors I don't know, but if you think NoCrode is expensive, try a micro-tube of headlight bulb connector grease for value for money ... but it must do the job, and we aren't slathering this stuff all over the place, just on the contact surface. Can then surround the connection with something like the TECTYL Superwax product (if you insist) - I wouldn't use Copperslip or Copper grease myself, when a tube of no-crode is to hand (mine's about 20 years old but you can get it quite easily still).

But really Stabilant 22 is what you want?

http://www.stabilant.com/techt02h.htm

If you can afford it...

5 degrees for unleaded on a DJ and disconnect the vacuum advance and retard and block hoses to time.