Club 80-90 Forums

Finding it pretty hard to remove the two allen bolts holding in the upper ball joint. Not got a lot of great tools but have sprayed it with WD40 and left for a few hours. Off to get some tools from Machine Mart but was wondering if there's anything I can do/tools I can buy to help me get them off?

Thanks,

Si

Just use a normal socket ratchet (+ piece of pipe extension if needed)

Give the bolts some heat and make sure the hex hole is thoroughly cleaned out. At a push you may have to cut the heads off or chisel them round. New bolts are optimal of course.

Ian

Ive found the best course of action with these vans is prep. If I know I'm taking something apart I'll start soaking it in plusgas [wd40 I don't like] for 2or3 nights running. Any hex fittings I hammer the tool in after cleaning out the part, to stop it rounding off. And when you put it back together use copperslip.

lloydy wrote:Ive found the best course of action with these vans is prep. If I know I'm taking something apart I'll start soaking it in plusgas [wd40 I don't like] for 2or3 nights running. Any hex fittings I hammer the tool in after cleaning out the part, to stop it rounding off. And when you put it back together use copperslip.

I got a lashing for using coppaslip in said bolts ... but they always come undone again when needed and they were properly tightened. It's worth remembering that WD stands for Water Dispersant .... i.e. it's not a penetrating oil, it does act as a lubricant though

Ian

Had the same problem, ended up cutting off a piece of the allen key and insterting it into a matching sized socket, attaching the sliding T-bar (most socket sets come with one) then as I applied un-doing pressure hitting it firmly with a small lump hammer, came out easily in the end. New ones were still avaliable at small cost from VW.

managed to get the allen bolts off eventually using a blow torch and my new allen key socket set. Now I have the problem of getting the nut off from the other end of the ball joint! I managed the get it to the end using a 12mm spanner at the bottom but its now stuck there and the spanner keeps slipping because its so tight. Tried using a pair of locking plliers to hold the end but its so tight they won't work. Really not sure what to do now! Also have a really stupid question but the MOT said to change the near side upper ball joint. I think i've stupidly done the wrong side as I've done the passenger side but on a LHD vehicle, is that the wrong one?! Not too bothered as I'm sure they both need doing....

Think I'm going to end up back at machine mart to get one of these?

http://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/produ ... litter-set" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

I have the identical set and have used them twice ... latest was on a top shock absorber nut which was spinning the rod itself.

On my bike it is then!

large cold chisel and a lump hammer required. use the chisel on the side of the head avoiding the hex socket and jarr the bolt about 10 degrees anticlockwise. then use alan key with an extension to unwind.

si macc wrote:managed to get the allen bolts off eventually using a blow torch and my new allen key socket set. Now I have the problem of getting the nut off from the other end of the ball joint! I managed the get it to the end using a 12mm spanner at the bottom but its now stuck there and the spanner keeps slipping because its so tight. Tried using a pair of locking plliers to hold the end but its so tight they won't work. Really not sure what to do now! Also have a really stupid question but the MOT said to change the near side upper ball joint. I think i've stupidly done the wrong side as I've done the passenger side but on a LHD vehicle, is that the wrong one?! Not too bothered as I'm sure they both need doing....

In this country the N/S is the pavement side even on a left hooker.

Martin

Are you saying the ball joint taper shaft is turning in the female (upright) housing)? Spanner is not 12 mm ... If so, remake the taper, and don't split tapers until nut is as good as off, then re-wind it slightly before splitting. Usually some really heavy wedging & jamming is sufficient if shaft is spinning

Never ever needed a bolt splitter, though can see it might be useful.

I am thinking your toolkit might need some improvement, the norm is for those hex heads to shear off, which isn't a problem when changing the balljoint.

Agree , never had a nut splitter cept when I miss something and slip With those hexes its as easy to wind them in and shear them, certainly quicker, its all a learning curve.
regards tools, its really worth spending for a few basic good tools, you may buy a budget socket set but add to it by purchasing some qualitty sockets such as 10.13.17.19mm maybe flank drives. same with hex keys, you often only get one go at these so spend on good tips
otherwise Im not going to add to what is already an epic, keep at it, your learning and will get there quicker on the n/s
mike

Thanks all for the help, I'm now the proud owner of some much better tools. Definitely a good investment for the future and have proved themselves already!