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anti roll bar drop links

Posted: 05 May 2011, 16:22
by Matflint
I have managed to break one

I know there are two types cranked and straight

I have straight ones but is there a difference between 2wd and syncro straight ones

seen one on ebay (straight) but it states not for syncro

i know you can buy them off brickwerks looked in t3 synco section for £55 which is good price

but looking like i need two as second one has next to no thread, so by the time i add on new bushes its getting

expensive so second hand with new bushes would be best

Any info much appreciated

cheers Mat

Re: anti roll bar drop links

Posted: 05 May 2011, 17:35
by Aidan
Matt
they are syncro specific, early are almost straight not handed, and late are cranked and handed
I have a good used early syncro one here, with new nut, it was the one Simon used as pattern for getting them made

Re: anti roll bar drop links

Posted: 05 May 2011, 20:20
by syncroandy
You could always bin the anti-roll bar. I tried it for a while on my pickup and it wasn't that bad.

Re: anti roll bar drop links

Posted: 06 May 2011, 07:51
by Matflint
Cheers for the offer Aidan

Thats what I was thinking Andy it's not my pick up though it's the camper

The pick up doesn't have an ARB and I think its fine

plus it'll give me chance to save some money if I need to buy the drop links :D

Re: anti roll bar drop links

Posted: 06 May 2011, 21:13
by Aidan
some mot testers will fail it without as they were fitted originally and they can see the marks on the chassis left by the fittings

Re: anti roll bar drop links

Posted: 07 May 2011, 14:10
by silverbullet
Get some mud underneath (not too much, mind) then they can't see the clamp marks! Or go for an MOT in the middle of winter, like I did :lol:
No ARB, no worries. You could always paint the chassis rails or slap on some underseal.

Re: anti roll bar drop links

Posted: 10 May 2011, 13:19
by dougslug
When I broke mine and wanted to repair on the cheap, I descovered that the threaded part is actualy
threaded into the cranked part.
I drilled mine out and re tapped it, but I imagine it is a tollerence fit and so heat and some stillsons should
do the job if you can get a grip on it
I replaced it with a length of high tenstile threaded bar and a lock nut..works fine and is now easy to repair
should the problem re occur