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Flywheel oil seal and end float
Posted: 30 Apr 2011, 19:47
by project25
I dont know how many read about my oil pressure problem, but that got solved with back filling from the oil filter oilways. Thanks for the advise, also cranked the motor over with plugs out, etc until oil came out of removed pressure switch hole between push rods. Fired it up and got good oil pressure but then oil sprayed and poured out of the bell housing.
Today the engine is back on the ground, and I have found the flywheel oil seal has been damaged because I never checked the end float. (I didnt have the equipment to measure it).
Haynes manual says there should be an "o" ring on the flywheel but Ive got an auto box and there is no provision for one?
Re: Flywheel oil seal and end float
Posted: 30 Apr 2011, 20:01
by kevtherev
when you dismantled the engine did you put the float shims back the same way you took them out?
Re: Flywheel oil seal and end float
Posted: 30 Apr 2011, 20:16
by project25
The engine I rebuilt was a mix of 2, long story about snapping off a head bolt.
So I ended up with the insides of my engine installed into the case of a scrap engine, so I didnt know which Pile of end float spacers to use.!
Re: Flywheel oil seal and end float
Posted: 30 Apr 2011, 21:40
by kevtherev
keep crank, shims and case together, otherwise you have to reshim
Re: Flywheel oil seal and end float
Posted: 01 May 2011, 14:55
by tencentlife
kevtherev wrote:keep crank, shims and case together, otherwise you have to reshim
You can't build one of these without a means to measure endplay, period. There are simple ways that don't require a dial indicator, by setting a stop and using feeler gauges, but as cheap as a dial indicator is these days there's no excuse not to own one if you are going to delve into this kind of work, even only once; you can buy a perfectly good one for about the price of your set of cam bearings. When you use one to measure endplay, for best accuracy set it on the pulley end of the crank.
But to your question, yes, the autotrans driveplate has a recess for an o-ring just like a flywheel does. This o-ring must be in place or oil will leak out from the hub. Do the endplay adjusting first without the o-ring, only put the new o-ring into the hub, lightly oiled, on your final assembly.
Also, if the hub of your FW or DP has a palpable groove where the seal lip rides the seal will probably leak. A lighter groove can be abraded down and the hub polished by spinning it and using progressively finer abrasive papers. If you can catch a fingernail in the groove it is too deep and you'll need to find a better part.