Club 80-90 Forums

haven't even tried to investigate yet but i have just noticed a wheel rotation related knock on hardish breaking coming from the reat end..poss the n/s? before i aimlessly start pulling stuff apart any ideas?? one knock per rotation slowins as i slow...under light breaking i cant hear it...think i can also feel it through the pedal....and its not got abs!!! before anyone asks

Me too! Mine is offside rear (I think) on a hard right turn on the overrun. Knackered CV I'll wager...

silverbullet wrote:Me too! Mine is offside rear (I think) on a hard right turn on the overrun. Knackered CV I'll wager...

really?? havent tried the turning circle thing.....just noticed it on breaking,...seems to be steadily getting worse by the day now too.....cv is that a buggar???

Doing the rears is straightforward - if a bit mucky - as long as all the bolts are the correct 12-spline type. If hex socket screws have been fitted with cheapo cv's they can strip out, then it's reach for your spare 12-spline tool, hammer in and then undo. I have cut the heads off with a thin disc before but it's not an option for the outers, which are buried up inside the swingarm (plus it's all too easy to slash the thin steel cover that holds the cv boot on the inners anyway...)
And the original VW circlips are "earless" so you need to hold the shaft in a vice or at least a workmate to make life easier. Best of luck!

PS. Make sure the rear hub nuts are tight (500 Nm or ~360 lb.ft in old money - 3/4" drive 46mm socket and 4 foot of scaffold pole time)

So err wouldn't be cracked disc/drum ?
Worth a look I hsave thought.

Cheers
Rich

Roving Rich wrote:So err wouldn't be cracked disc/drum ?
Worth a look I hsave thought.

Cheers
Rich

umm!....dont like the sound of that....best av' a look then!!11!

silverbullet wrote:Doing the rears is straightforward - if a bit mucky - as long as all the bolts are the correct 12-spline type. If hex socket screws have been fitted with cheapo cv's they can strip out, then it's reach for your spare 12-spline tool, hammer in and then undo. I have cut the heads off with a thin disc before but it's not an option for the outers, which are buried up inside the swingarm (plus it's all too easy to slash the thin steel cover that holds the cv boot on the inners anyway...)
And the original VW circlips are "earless" so you need to hold the shaft in a vice or at least a workmate to make life easier. Best of luck!

PS. Make sure the rear hub nuts are tight (500 Nm or ~360 lb.ft in old money - 3/4" drive 46mm socket and 4 foot of scaffold pole time)

is it possible or possible but madness or a good idea to swap the drive shafts around left for right. so that they drive as if they were in reverse...which i guess will have done no miles atall

And run the risk of snapping a driveshaft? Once run in one direction they shouldn't be swapped over as they develop a helical stress pattern in the steel and should not be exchanged left for right - like twisting a rope.
OK one way but unravels the other! Ask any old-time mechanic or experienced classic car owner worth their salt and they will tell you the same thing.
Mine has now started to knock under load as well so it's ripe for some new cv's. Might just do all 4 before I start looking the front end. And the exhaust. And the prop...

silverbullet wrote:And run the risk of snapping a driveshaft? Once run in one direction they shouldn't be swapped over as they develop a helical stress pattern in the steel and should not be exchanged left for right - like twisting a rope.
OK one way but unravels the other! Ask any old-time mechanic or experienced classic car owner worth their salt and they will tell you the same thing.
Mine has now started to knock under load as well so it's ripe for some new cv's. Might just do all 4 before I start looking the front end. And the exhaust. And the prop...

very wise sounding words....and very logical thinking about it..thanks

thanks to you guys and a bit of wiki... think i can rule out cv's...no side to side or up or down movement what so ever...only in-out .....so i guess it must be brake related and thats the only time i can feel/hear it. what can go wrong inside the drum that would only knock on medium to hard braking. is removing the drum a big deal

silverbullet wrote:Doing the rears is straightforward - if a bit mucky - as long as all the bolts are the correct 12-spline type. If hex socket screws have been fitted with cheapo cv's they can strip out, then it's reach for your spare 12-spline tool, hammer in and then undo. I have cut the heads off with a thin disc before but it's not an option for the outers, which are buried up inside the swingarm (plus it's all too easy to slash the thin steel cover that holds the cv boot on the inners anyway...)
And the original VW circlips are "earless" so you need to hold the shaft in a vice or at least a workmate to make life easier. Best of luck!

PS. Make sure the rear hub nuts are tight (500 Nm or ~360 lb.ft in old money - 3/4" drive 46mm socket and 4 foot of scaffold pole time)

with sockets that size gonna have to be an ats/kwickfit time......a***!

Just got back from weekend away so just catching up - I have 46mm socket and bar if you want to borrow one. Just give me a shout.

PetenAli wrote:Just got back from weekend away so just catching up - I have 46mm socket and bar if you want to borrow one. Just give me a shout.

thanks very much......i'll give you a shout when i get a mo to get on to it...

I've known the break back plates to knock on the drums before.
Still a drum off fix to "tap" the back plates into alignment.

You dont need to remove the 46mm nut to take the drums off. Just remove the 2 m7 11mm spanner bolts and pull the drum off.