Club 80-90 Forums

open to any ideas....for the past 3 years or so changing from first to second gear gives a blood curdleing kind of dry screech that is fast starting to bend my mind!!! its never got any worse and ONLY does it when the atmosphere is DRY!...OR when dried out through driving a few miles. it makes no difference if its -10 or 30 degrees it seems only to happen when its dry. i don't have a sloppy gear change, so trying NOT to spend the £60 on a repair kit yet. i've spray greased just about any and everything linkage related i can see, squirted silicone spray down the little channels at the bottom of the gear leaver ball joint inside the cab and sprayed inside the external silver box (blind random style)with chain lube. it feels as though its at the bottom of the lever but cant be sure?? and its ONLY first to second ONLY! ANYBODYS TWO PENNETH WELCOME!!!!......if it makes any odds its a 2.1 D.J ...NOT CAKED IN CRAP!

I don't know what the parts are called. But is in rubbing against the bit in the the box below the lever that separates R and G from 1 and 2?

I had a really notching gear change and couldn't always get 1st on the first attempt. A good clean, grease and adjustment of the linkage and all is now perfect.

thanks....didn't know you could adjust the linkage!

KINGPRAWN wrote:thanks....didn't know you could adjust the linkage!

Undo the plastic pipe protection and slide as far back as poss and you will he able to see where you can adjust it.

NOT BEING UNDER THE VAN NOW...WHERE WILL I BE LOOKING FOR THE PLASTIC PROTECTOR???

You can't miss it. It's about 1.5m long and the size of a drain pipe.

Another simple thing to check for is (and I know this sounds really unlikely but one of ours did this squeaky grating thing for ages until I found it) the orientation of the coolant hose/pipe clamps at the radiator end of the pipes. If the standard VW spring-type clamps are still fitted, make sure the the gearshift rod going back from the lever can't catch the tangs on the clamps when hard over for the 1-2 shift.

EUREKA after all these years today was my basil fawlty moment....enough!! with the aid of a trusty 4 year old having a dream come true wiggeling the gear stick back and forth, the screech turned out to be nothing more than the gear rod rubbing the underside of the floor!!....found a clip in the glovebox from god only knows what? that could have been made for the purpose, after all these years it GONE GONE GONE...close to one of my greatest achievements EVER!!!!

Begs the question...how and where is the lever catching the floor? Doesn't sound right somehow...something bent underneath?

silverbullet wrote:Begs the question...how and where is the lever catching the floor? Doesn't sound right somehow...something bent underneath?

the rod that enters the box at the bottom of the gear stick about 6" back, it was hitting a rib in the floor panel??...is something very wrong with that?????

Hmm, time to get a pic or two posted for further analysis. Doesn't sound right to me, but what do I know?

ninja.turtle007 wrote:You can't miss it. It's about 1.5m long and the size of a drain pipe.

i don't seem to have any protectors.....

KINGPRAWN wrote:

ninja.turtle007 wrote:You can't miss it. It's about 1.5m long and the size of a drain pipe.

i don't seem to have any protectors.....

Early ones don't.
Neither I or silverbullet has them either.
Rob.

Down at the lock up today and I have only one set of the late syncro chassis sandwich plates for the front onion that includes the collar for the front small drain pipe tube thing and the extended offset flange for the rear bulge pipe that joins the drainpipe
you can use a steering rack boot for the front seal instead if the convolted vw one, drainpipe for the rear with a little metal stay onto the prop bar
the bulge pipe that's where the UJ is, they are the difficult bit to find

Aidan wrote:Down at the lock up today and I have only one set of the late syncro chassis sandwich plates for the front onion that includes the collar for the front small drain pipe tube thing and the extended offset flange for the rear bulge pipe that joins the drainpipe
you can use a steering rack boot for the front seal instead if the convolted vw one, drainpipe for the rear with a little metal stay onto the prop bar
the bulge pipe that's where the UJ is, they are the difficult bit to find

thats a beautiful combination of words!....does it all mean that you have what i should have/need???