Club 80-90 Forums

Rather an odd one, the Eber was working in the van fine a few weeks ago, I thought i'd give it a quick run last night.

Upon pressing the heat button on the controller, im hearing a click for it turning on, but no fan movement.

Battery is on charge now, but any other suggestions as to what could be causing it?

Its an EX-BT Eber D2

Basic Troubleshooting from t'manual.
Check List:
What happens when the heater is switched on and ....

Heater does not ignite
1 Blower motor does not run
Check: - Fuse in power harness.
- Power to control unit.
- Power to and from switch.
- Electrical connections.

2 Blower motor runs approximately 20 seconds and then
shuts off
Check: - Ensure voltage at control unit remains
above 10 volts during start up with glow
plug circuit on.

3 Blower motor runs/fuel metering pump starts and then
shuts down after two start up attempts
Check: - Fuel lines and fuel filter.
- Fuel quantity. Pg. 23
- Combustion air or exhaust tube blockage.

4 Blower motor runs/ no fuel metering pump
Check: - For electrical pulses at fuel metering
pump.
- If pump is frozen.
- Blocked fuel line.

Heater ignites
1 Shuts down at random
Check: - Fuel metering pump quantity. Pg. 23
- Possible overheat.
- Control unit input voltage.
2 Heater smokes and carbons up
Check: - Exhaust pipe blocked.
- Combustion air intake blocked.
- Exhaust entering combustion air intake
pipe.
- Short cycling, rapid on/off operation.
- Fuel system.
- Fuel metering pump quantity.
- Motor rpm.

Fan isnt even spinning

Voltage appears to be ok though

The start up sequence is:
On start up the indicator light illuminates and the following
sequences take place:
• Control unit does a systems check of the glow pin, flame
sensor/temperature sensor, fuel metering pump and control
unit.
• Blower starts slowly and begins to accelerate.

so you will need to check the components above.

Glow pin:
Check continuity of glow pin.
AIRTRONIC 12 volt - approx. 0.5 ohm ± 0.05 ohm

overheat sensor:
Temperature °C Resistance k/ohm min. max.
-40 /1597.0 / 1913.0
-20 / 458.80 / 533.40
0 / 154.70 / 175.50
20 / 59.30 /65.84
40 /25.02 /28.04
60 /11.56 /13.16
80 /5.782 / 6.678
100 /3.095 /3.623
120 /1.757 /2.081
140 /1.050 /1.256
160 /0.6654 /0.792
180 /0.4253 /0.5187
200 /0.2857 / 0.3513

flame sensor:
Temperature °C Resistance k/ohm min. max.
-40 /825.90 /859.60
0 /980.00 /1020.00
40 /1132.30 /1178.50
80 /1282.80 /1335.10
120 /1431.50 /1489.90
160 /1578.30 /1642.80
200 /1723.40 /1793.70
240 /1866.60 /1942.80
280 /2008.10 /2090.00
320 /2147.70 /2235.40
360 /2285.50 /2378.80
400 /2421.50 /2520.30

Thanks cheif, I'll get around it with a multimeter later once its back from MOT station

The glow pin is showing approx 0.8ohms resistance

Will test the overheat senor tonight.

The pump works, as i've tested it, and it clicks away quite happily.

Also fan is ok, i've hooked it up to a spare battery and it spun up fine.

Audible click form the ECU when turning the unit on, but nothing futher.

Fingers crossed its the sensor and not a dead ECU

Ok, swapped out the overheat sensor.

Upon turning it on now, the fan spins up, bit quicker than usual. No clicking from the fuel pump though.

Pump does work, if i connect direct to a 12v source, it clicks. and im getting fuel through it.

inlet and exhaust are clear, and not restricted.

Any idea's on what to check next?

Still seems like classic undervoltage symptom. Voltage could be going too low as the glow pin is switched in circuit. Try it whilst it's battery is hooked up to a battery charger. It can be caused by the battery being just at sufficient level at the start but is dropping due to a combination of too small power cables and poor battery. The timing of the fan run time is relevant - the 20 seconds and then shut off will be undervoltage.

Ahh ok. I'll give that a bash tonight. See how it goes

I shall report back. Thanks

Chris

Definatly got more than enough voltage at the fuse. 12.6 volt.

The fan runs, but its just runs and runs, much more than 20 seconds.

Could it be the glowpin maybe?

The resistance is slightly high at 0.8 but I would have expected that to have worked. I would have expected the fan to not function if the glow pin were too far out. It would be an item to eliminate if you have one that you could swap in.
Have you checked that there is continuity in the wiring to the fuel pump?
Is it switching itself off or are you doing it manually? Has it been left to run continuously for a half hour or so to see what it does - it may just be running a purge cycle due to previous failed attempts?
What controller do you have with it? There might be a lockout now due to several abortive startup attempts.
Strange that you started with no fan operating and are now getting fan and nothing else. It's not being run in ventilation mode rather than heating mode is it? (getting back to basics).

I have been switching it off manually. I'll go flick it on during my lunch hour today and leave it for 30 mins or longer, to see what it does

I've got a spare new glowpin. so i'll whip that out to test.

I've got one of the BT 1 hour limited controllers The digital ones.

I've put the heat right up to full on it, so I assume thats running in heat move and not ventilation?

I'll report back what happens after a long run

Well its now been run for almost a full hour. Still fan just running faster than usual, but no heat, and no audible clicking from the pump.

Any suggestions as to what to check next?

Was that with the other glow pin also?
It is sounding more and more as though the ECU is playing up. Either that or the brain has gone into lockdown - you either need a dealer to unlock it and read the fault code/s or find someone with a fault displaying timer/heat control.
That is about all that I can suggest without being able to get at the codes.
Why they designed this model with a lockdown feature is beyond me. Most heaters are reset just by removing all power but this one has to be different.

Ahhh bugger! Thanks matey. I'll have to try and find someone who can do that near me.