Club 80-90 Forums

Hi there,

As I am new to the T25 specifically and am damn close to buying one, I'm going to take advantage of this amazing resource! I am looking at a '89 1.7 diesel and I have already posted some other questions about engine concerns. The other problem is with the ignition (at the key). Turn the key - sometimes starts, sometimes nothing. Obviously electrical, but can anyone direct me to the best place to look first before I go tearing out the steering column in search of one loose connector...
The guy who owns it installed a bypass instead of just fixing it - one button on either side of the steering wheel to be pushed simultaneously to start with key in 'on' position.

Any thoughts?

Hi there - the fact that it has been fixed in the way you describe would suggest that the problem is the ignition switch, it wont be starter solenoid motor etc assuming that it starts every time on these 2 buttons...

This is generic as ive never looked at the exact set up on a T25 but imagine it to be the same as most vehicles of this vintage (ie not much to it! )

I presume hes has just cut the starter solenoid feed wires from the ignition switch and fitted a button switch- although why he needs 2 buttons i dont know - sounds very james bond / pentagon / nucular misile!!

To be honest Ignition barrels are usually cast units that are really unservicable to the home mechanic. I imagine that your man did the cheapest / easiest option available...

only way to fix will probably be a new barrel BUT... you could try identifying the relevant wires on the back of the barrel - connecting a multi-meter on a continuity setting - audible ones are easiest, squirting the barrell full of elctrical cleaner and turning the key back and for alot, see if you can get constant continuity in the start position. If you can then reconnect the wires and see how you go.

Yes.....you need to replace the ignition switch which is situated reverse side of where you turn the key.
These switches are under £10 from GSF/Euro Car Parts/Brickwerks.
Very common fault.
You need to remove the steering lock mounting bracket to enable access to the one philips head screw holding the switch to the alluminium housing.
About 30 minute job....45 mins first time.

Martin

Got beat to the draw!!!
Anyway...it's just the nylon switch you want, NOT the whole lock mechanism!!!!!

Remove steering wheel being careful not to disturb it's straight ahead position.
Remove plastic column housing
remove switch gear (3 screws)
knock around the shear head of the housing clamp (underneath) you can put an ordinary 8mm bolt back (this shear bolt is supposed to offer a little security that's all)
Put the key in the lock first position
Pull off the lock mechanism
Pull off switch plug
Take out the ignition switch retaining screw
Swap over with new switch
rebuild
Done


Martin

Wow...amazing. Thanks for the response. That's about what I was thinking, as I had similar issues with my old '68 bay. Think the double button was added security (?). Not a deal breaker!

Thanks...